In the sixth century, in a remote valley where the Welsh coast meets the Atlantic, a monk named Dewi established a monastery that would become the spiritual heart of Wales. Known to English speakers as David, this austere abbot lived on bread, water, and wild leeks, and expected similar discipline from his monks. He founded churches across Wales and beyond, preached against the Pelagian heresy, and died around 589 on March 1—a date Wales still celebrates as its national day. The cathedral that rose over his tomb became one of medieval Europe's great pilgrimage destinations, so significant that Pope Callixtus II declared two pilgrimages to St. Davids equal to one to Rome.
St. Davids is technically Britain's smallest city, its cathedral status elevating a village of fewer than two thousand souls. The massive Norman cathedral, rebuilt after Viking destruction, sits in a hollow below the village—invisible until the pilgrim descends the Thirty-Nine Articles (steps) and suddenly confronts its purple-grey magnificence. This hidden quality is deliberate; the medieval builders understood that sacred space reveals itself to those who seek.
For Catholics, St. Davids presents the complexity of English Christianity: a shrine founded and hallowed by Catholic saints, maintained today by the Church in Wales (Anglican), yet still resonant with the faith of its origins. The shrine of St. David was restored in 2012 with an icon that welcomes pilgrims of all traditions. The saint's relics—discovered in 1275 behind the high altar—remain in the cathedral he founded.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
David (Dewi Sant in Welsh) was born around 500, traditionally the son of a Welsh princess named Non and Sant, a chieftain of Ceredigion. His mother's memory is preserved at the holy well of St. Non's Chapel, just south of the cathedral. David was educated at a monastic school and ordained priest before founding his own monastery at Vallis Rosina (the Vale of Roses), the valley where the cathedral now stands.
David's monasticism was exceptionally strict. His monks worked the land without animals, pulling the plough themselves. They drank only water and ate bread, herbs, and vegetables—a discipline that earned David the epithet "Aquaticus" (the Waterman). Despite this austerity, the monastery flourished and became a center of learning and mission.
David's most famous appearance was at the Synod of Llanddewi Brefi, where he preached against the Pelagian heresy. According to legend, the ground rose beneath his feet so all could see and hear him, while a white dove settled on his shoulder—both images that appear in his iconography.
He died on March 1, around 589. His last words to his monks were: "Be joyful, keep the faith, and do the little things that you have heard and seen me do." The phrase "Gwnewch y pethau bychain" (Do the little things) became a Welsh proverb and a summary of David's spirituality.
Viking raids destroyed the original monastery repeatedly between the ninth and eleventh centuries. The Normans rebuilt on a grand scale; the present cathedral dates largely from the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Pope Callixtus II's declaration in 1123 that two pilgrimages to St. Davids equaled one to Rome brought European recognition and international pilgrims.
The medieval shrine was a place of color and light, adorned with gold, silver, and jewels. Henry II and Edward I made pilgrimage. The Reformation brought destruction; the shrine was dismantled, the relics scattered or hidden. A bone reliquary discovered in 1866 may contain David's remains; it is now displayed in the cathedral.
In 2012, a new shrine was created, featuring an icon of St. David written by iconographer Sara Crisp. The shrine welcomes pilgrims of all Christian traditions to honor Wales' patron saint.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in St. Davids
St. Davids Cathedral
The cathedral, set in its hollow, represents the accumulated devotion of fifteen centuries. The Norman nave, with its distinctive sloping floor; the fourteenth-century wooden ceiling with its medieval bosses; the massive tower; and the atmospheric side chapels create an environment of profound sacred beauty.
The Shrine of St. David occupies a position of honor in the presbytery. The modern shrine incorporates the medieval reliquary and the 2012 icon. Pilgrims gather here to honor Dewi Sant and to seek his intercession.
The cathedral remains the seat of the Bishop of St. Davids (Church in Wales), but its heritage belongs to all Christians who revere the saints of the ancient British church.
Bishop's Palace
The ruined medieval palace, adjacent to the cathedral, housed the Bishops of St. Davids in considerable splendor. The extensive ruins, now managed by Cadw, illustrate the wealth that pilgrimage brought to this remote corner of Wales.
St. Non's Chapel and Well
South of the cathedral, the ruins of a medieval chapel mark the traditional site of David's birth. According to legend, a spring burst forth at the moment of his birth; the holy well continues to flow. The setting, on cliffs above St. Non's Bay, is hauntingly beautiful.
A modern Catholic chapel and retreat center (St. Non's Retreat) adjoins the medieval ruins, providing space for Catholic worship and pilgrimage.
St. Non's Retreat (Catholic)
The retreat center, opened in 1934, provides Catholic pilgrims with a base for devotion and reflection. The chapel offers Mass; the gardens overlook the ruins of St. Non's Chapel and the sea beyond. Retreats and quiet days are offered throughout the year.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
St. David's Day — March 1
The national day of Wales celebrates the patron saint with special liturgies at the cathedral. The day is a national holiday in Wales; celebrations include parades, concerts, and wearing of leeks and daffodils.
St. David's Day Pilgrimage
Organized pilgrimages to the cathedral and St. Non's on or near March 1.
Cathedral Festival — Summer
Annual festival of music, arts, and spirituality centered on the cathedral.
🛏️ Where to Stay
St. Non's Retreat (Catholic retreat center) — Pilgrim accommodation adjacent to St. Non's Chapel. Website
Twr y Felin Hotel ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Stylish hotel in a converted windmill, near the cathedral. Website
Various B&Bs in St. Davids — The village offers numerous guesthouses.
Haverfordwest Hotels — The county town (25 km) provides additional options.
🚗 Getting There
By Car: St. Davids is at the end of the A487, in the far southwest of Wales. From Haverfordwest (25 km), follow signs to St. Davids. Parking available in the village.
By Bus: Coastal buses connect St. Davids with Haverfordwest and Fishguard. The Celtic Coaster service runs around the Pembrokeshire coast in summer.
By Train: The nearest railway stations are Haverfordwest (25 km) and Fishguard (25 km). Bus connections to St. Davids.
By Car: Approximately 2.5 hours from Cardiff via M4 and A40/A487.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Rhigyfarch, Life of St. David — The medieval biography, available in scholarly editions.
Nona Rees, St. David of Dewisland — Modern biography of the saint.
🔗 Useful Links
St. Davids Cathedral — Service times and visiting information.
St. Non's Retreat — Catholic retreat center.
Cadw: Bishop's Palace — Visiting information.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Cardigan (50 km) — National Shrine of Our Lady of the Taper.
Bardsey Island (150 km) — The Island of Twenty Thousand Saints.
Holywell (200 km) — St. Winefride's Well.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"Be joyful, brothers and sisters. Keep the faith, and do the little things that you have heard and seen me do." — Last words of St. David, c. 589 (St Davids Cathedral)
