Two miles off the tip of the Llŷn Peninsula, where the wild waters of Cardigan Bay meet the Irish Sea, lies an island the Welsh call Ynys Enlli—"the island in the currents." English speakers know it as Bardsey, but its ancient title tells its story: the Island of Twenty Thousand Saints. Here, according to medieval reckoning, so many holy men and women were buried that three pilgrimages to Bardsey equaled one to Rome. Monks, hermits, and pilgrims sought out this remote Atlantic outpost for over a millennium, making it one of the most sacred sites in Wales.
The island's spiritual history stretches back to the earliest days of British Christianity. St. Cadfan established a monastery here around 516, and for centuries Bardsey served as a refuge for those seeking the ultimate solitude—a place where sea and sky dissolved the boundaries between earth and heaven. The monastery flourished until the Reformation; the pilgrimage that fed it drew thousands along what became known as the "Pilgrim's Way" through North Wales.
Today, Bardsey remains inhabited by a small community of farmers and conservationists. The ruins of the medieval abbey tower still stand, and the island's profound silence continues to draw pilgrims and seekers. Reaching Bardsey requires crossing the treacherous Bardsey Sound, whose currents can change in minutes—a crossing that itself becomes an act of faith, a journey into the unknown that mirrors the spiritual pilgrimage.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The origins of Christian Bardsey are attributed to St. Cadfan, a Breton monk who arrived around 516 with a group of companions, fleeing unrest on the continent. He established a monastery that would become one of the principal religious houses of medieval Wales. The island's remoteness made it ideal for the ascetic life the Celtic monks sought; its difficulty of access ensured that those who came were serious in their vocation.
The tradition of the Twenty Thousand Saints arose from the island's use as a burial place for monks, hermits, and pilgrims over centuries. Whether the number is literal or symbolic, it points to Bardsey's status as a holy necropolis—a place where the faithful desired to be buried in anticipation of the resurrection. The soil itself was considered sanctified by the bones of saints.
The pilgrimage to Bardsey became formalized in the medieval period. Pope Callixtus II (or his successors) allegedly declared that three pilgrimages to Bardsey equaled one to Rome, making the island accessible to Welsh Christians who could not undertake the continental journey. The Pilgrim's Way wound through North Wales, stopping at churches and holy wells, before reaching Aberdaron and the crossing to Bardsey.
The monastery was dissolved in 1537, and the island passed through various secular owners. But its sacred character persisted in Welsh memory. Revival of interest came in the twentieth century; today, the Bardsey Island Trust manages the island as a nature reserve while respecting its spiritual heritage.
The island's Welsh name, Ynys Enlli, evokes the dangerous currents of Bardsey Sound. These tidal races could trap or drown the unwary; pilgrims who crossed successfully had already demonstrated courage and commitment before setting foot on holy ground.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites on Bardsey
Abbey Tower (Tŵr yr Abaty)
The thirteenth-century tower is the most substantial surviving remnant of St. Mary's Abbey, the Augustinian house that succeeded the earlier Celtic monastery. The tower rises dramatically against the island's skyline, visible from the mainland as a beacon of the island's sacred purpose. The surrounding area contains the foundations of monastic buildings.
St. Mary's Well (Ffynnon Fair)
The holy well on Bardsey, dedicated to Our Lady, provided water for the monastic community and was believed to have healing properties. Pilgrims would drink from the well as part of their devotions. The well can still be located, though it requires local guidance.
Celtic Crosses and Grave Markers
Scattered across the island are early medieval crosses and grave markers, testimony to the countless burials that earned Bardsey its title. Some date from the Age of Saints; others mark later monastic burials. These worn stones connect modern pilgrims to the twenty thousand saints beneath their feet.
Bardsey Sound (Swnt Enlli)
The crossing itself forms part of the pilgrimage. The treacherous waters, two miles wide, test the pilgrim's resolve. Successful crossing—always dependent on weather and tides—becomes an experience of trust in God and in the boatmen who know these currents. The sound is navigable only in favorable conditions.
St. Hywyn's Church, Aberdaron
This medieval church on the mainland served as the final staging point for pilgrims before crossing to Bardsey. Pilgrims would attend Mass and receive blessings here while waiting for favorable weather. The church preserves the atmosphere of medieval pilgrimage.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of St. Cadfan — November 1
The traditional feast of Bardsey's founder, St. Cadfan, coincides with All Saints' Day, appropriate for the Island of Twenty Thousand Saints.
Pilgrimage Season — May through September
The traditional pilgrimage season, when sea crossings are most feasible. Modern pilgrimage groups organize crossings during these months.
Bardsey Island Trust Events
The Trust organizes retreats, pilgrimages, and spiritual programs throughout the summer season.
🛏️ Where to Stay
On Bardsey Island: The Bardsey Island Trust offers self-catering accommodation in restored farm buildings. Stays are typically weekly; advance booking essential. Website
In Aberdaron: The Ship Hotel and various B&Bs serve pilgrims waiting for crossing conditions.
In Pwllheli: The nearby town (15 km) offers more extensive accommodation options.
🚗 Getting There
By Car: Aberdaron is at the end of the B4413, at the tip of the Llŷn Peninsula. By car from Pwllheli, approximately 25 km.
By Ferry: The only access to Bardsey is by boat from Aberdaron or Porth Meudwy. Crossings depend entirely on weather and sea conditions. Bardsey Boat Trips operates regular services when conditions permit (typically taking 20-30 minutes). Book in advance and be prepared for cancellations due to weather. Sea conditions in Bardsey Sound can change rapidly.
By Train: Pwllheli (25 km from Aberdaron) on the Cambrian Coast Line is the nearest railway station.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Christine Evans, Bardsey — Personal account of life on the island by a long-term resident.
Mary Chitty, The Monks of Bardsey — History of the monastic community.
Brendan O'Malley, A Welsh Pilgrim's Manual — Guide to pilgrimage in Wales including the Bardsey route.
🔗 Useful Links
Bardsey Island Trust — Island information and accommodation booking.
Bardsey Boat Trips — Crossing services.
Llŷn Peninsula Pilgrim's Way — Route information for the traditional pilgrim path.
🥾 Pilgrim Routes
North Wales Pilgrim's Way (Taith Pererin Gogledd Cymru) — A 130-mile/210-km route from Basingwerk Abbey near Holywell to Bardsey, passing through medieval pilgrimage sites. Can be walked in 12-14 days.
Llŷn Peninsula Pilgrim's Way — The final section through the Llŷn Peninsula, approximately 60 km from Clynnog Fawr to Aberdaron.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Holywell (100 km) — St. Winefride's Well, the "Lourdes of Wales."
St. Davids (150 km) — Shrine of Wales' patron saint.
Clynnog Fawr (30 km) — Church of St. Beuno, major stop on the pilgrims' way.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"Since we are surrounded by so great a cloud of witnesses, let us rid ourselves of every burden and sin that clings to us and persevere in running the race that lies before us." — Hebrews 12:1 (NABRE)
