In the seventh century, a hermit from Athens named Aegidius withdrew to the marshes of the Rhone delta, seeking solitude and union with God. His only companion was a hind that sustained him with her milk. When the Visigoth king Wamba came hunting and loosed an arrow at the deer, it struck the hermit instead. The king, overcome with remorse, built a monastery on the spot. The hermit who became Saint Gilles would be venerated throughout medieval Europe as one of the Fourteen Holy Helpers, and the abbey that grew around his tomb would become one of Christendom's most important pilgrimage destinations.
At its height in the twelfth century, the Abbatiale de Saint-Gilles rivaled Rome, Jerusalem, and Santiago de Compostela in pilgrimage traffic. Its facade, a masterpiece of Romanesque sculpture now inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, was designed to awe pilgrims arriving from across Europe. Though the abbey suffered catastrophic destruction during the Wars of Religion and the Revolution, what survives—the great west facade, the crypt with the saint's tomb, and the remarkable spiral staircase—testifies to the ambition and faith of medieval builders. For modern pilgrims beginning the Via Tolosana toward Compostela, Saint-Gilles remains the traditional starting point, a threshold between the familiar world and the long road to the tomb of the Apostle James.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
Gilles of Athens—known in Latin as Aegidius and in French as Gilles—belongs to that company of early medieval saints whose historical reality is obscured by centuries of legendary accretion. What can be established is that by the eighth century, an abbey dedicated to a hermit saint existed in the marshy country where the Petit Rhone approaches the Mediterranean. The Benedictine monastery grew wealthy on pilgrimage offerings, and by the eleventh century it had become one of the most powerful religious houses in southern France.
The construction of the great abbey church began around 1116 and continued through the twelfth century. The west facade, completed around 1180, represents the apex of Provence Romanesque sculpture. Its three portals, flanked by columns and carved with scenes from the life of Christ and figures of apostles and prophets, formed an elaborate theological program in stone. The central portal, depicting Christ in Majesty, was designed to impress pilgrims with the glory that awaited the faithful at journey's end.
The abbey's position on the Via Tolosana, one of the four great pilgrimage roads to Santiago de Compostela, ensured a constant flow of travelers. The twelfth-century Codex Calixtinus, the pilgrim's guidebook to Compostela, specifically lists Saint-Gilles as a mandatory stop. The saint's tomb in the crypt, along with his reputation for healing and his status as one of the Fourteen Holy Helpers invoked against plague and epilepsy, drew pilgrims from England, Germany, and beyond.
The Wars of Religion brought disaster. Protestant forces under Francois de Beaumont, Baron des Adrets, sacked the abbey in 1562. The upper church was largely destroyed, never to be rebuilt. What remains above ground is essentially the lower portion of a building that once soared far higher. The crypt, sheltering the tomb of Saint Gilles, survived intact.
The Revolution dealt further blows, as the monastery was dissolved and its property dispersed. The nineteenth and twentieth centuries brought gradual restoration and renewed appreciation. In 1998, the west facade was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the "Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France." Today the church serves as a parish while welcoming pilgrims who, as in medieval times, pause here before the long walk to Spain.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Saint-Gilles
Abbatiale de Saint-Gilles
Abbey Church of Saint Gilles
The abbey church presents one of the most remarkable facades in European Romanesque architecture. Three portals, richly carved with biblical scenes, open beneath a frieze depicting the Passion of Christ. The central portal shows Christ in Majesty surrounded by the symbols of the four evangelists. Figures of the twelve apostles stand in the niches between the portals, their drapery and expressions displaying the sophisticated naturalism that characterizes the School of Saint-Gilles.
The interior, much reduced from its medieval extent, preserves the lower nave and side aisles. The choir was rebuilt in the seventeenth century but retains elements of the original structure. The overall effect is of monumental grandeur even in its damaged state, a testimony to the ambitions of medieval builders who conceived a church worthy of one of Christendom's most popular saints.
Crypte et Tombeau de Saint-Gilles
Crypt and Tomb of Saint Gilles
Beneath the choir, the Romanesque crypt preserves the tomb of Saint Gilles, goal of countless medieval pilgrimages. The crypt dates to the eleventh century and escaped the destruction that befell the upper church. Its barrel-vaulted chambers, supported by massive pillars, create an atmosphere of ancient sanctity.
The saint's tomb, marked by a simple sarcophagus, is the object of veneration. Pilgrims traditionally pray here before beginning their journey to Compostela or give thanks upon their return. The crypt also contains the tombs of several abbots and medieval artifacts. The descent from the bright Provencal light into this subterranean space reproduces the experience of countless medieval pilgrims approaching the relics of the holy hermit.
Vis de Saint-Gilles
Spiral Staircase of Saint Gilles
The remarkable spiral staircase in the former bell tower, known as the Vis de Saint-Gilles, is a masterpiece of medieval stereotomy, the art of stone cutting. Built in the twelfth century, its perfect helicoidal form was studied by architects throughout the Middle Ages and Renaissance. The staircase demonstrates the extraordinary technical skill of the builders who created the abbey.
Though no longer used for access to the tower (which was destroyed in the religious wars), the staircase can be visited as part of a tour of the abbey complex. For visitors with interest in architectural history, it represents one of the finest examples of Romanesque construction technique in existence.
Maison Romane
Romanesque House
Adjacent to the abbey, this twelfth-century building is considered the birthplace of Pope Clement IV, Guy Foulques, who was born in Saint-Gilles around 1200. The house now contains a small museum of medieval artifacts and documents related to the abbey's history. The building itself, with its Romanesque windows and carved details, offers an example of civilian architecture from the age of the great pilgrimage.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of Saint Gilles — September 1
The principal celebration of the abbey's patron draws pilgrims for solemn Mass, procession of relics, and veneration at the crypt tomb. As Saint Gilles is the patron of the town, the religious celebration is accompanied by civic festivities.
Blessing of Pilgrims
The parish offers blessings for pilgrims beginning the Via Tolosana to Santiago de Compostela. Credentials (credenciales) can be stamped at the abbey as the first mark of a Compostela pilgrimage.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Le Cours ⭐⭐ — Simple hotel in the town center, a short walk from the abbey. Traditional rooms and helpful staff familiar with pilgrim needs. Reserve this hotel
Mas de la Grenouillere (B&B) — Charming bed and breakfast in a traditional Camargue farmhouse on the outskirts of town. Pool, garden, and warm hospitality. Website ∙ Reserve
Gite d'Etape Le Refuge des Pelerins (pilgrim hostel) — Pilgrim refuge offering dormitory accommodation for those walking the Via Tolosana. Contact the tourism office or Confraternity of Saint James for current information.
Camping La Petite Camargue (campsite) — Campground near the town with pitches and mobile homes. Convenient for pilgrims with modest budgets. Website
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Nimes-Ales-Camargue-Cevennes Airport is approximately 15 km north, with limited flights. Marseille Provence Airport (70 km east) and Montpellier-Mediterranee Airport (50 km west) offer more connections. Car rental is available at all three airports.
By Train: The nearest train station is Nimes (20 km), with TGV connections from Paris, Lyon, and Marseille. From Nimes, local buses connect to Saint-Gilles, or the town can be reached by taxi.
By Car: Saint-Gilles lies just off the A54 motorway between Nimes and Arles. From Nimes, take the D42 south (approximately 20 minutes). From Arles, take the D37 west (approximately 25 minutes). Parking is available near the abbey.
On Foot: Pilgrims walking the Via Tolosana traditionally begin here, though the route can also be joined from Arles. The GR 653 long-distance trail passes through Saint-Gilles on its way to the Pyrenees.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Annie Shaver-Crandell and Paula Gerson, The Pilgrim's Guide to Santiago de Compostela — Critical edition of the medieval Codex Calixtinus with scholarly notes on Saint-Gilles.
Whitney S. Stoddard, The Facade of Saint-Gilles-du-Gard — Definitive study of the abbey's Romanesque sculpture and its place in medieval art.
Online Resources:
UNESCO World Heritage: Routes of Santiago de Compostela — Entry for the French pilgrimage routes including Saint-Gilles.
Confraternity of Saint James — British organization supporting pilgrims to Compostela, with route information.
🎥 Recommended Videos
The Via Tolosana: From Saint-Gilles to Compostela — Documentary following pilgrims on the southern French route.
Romanesque Sculpture of Provence — Art historical tour including the facade of Saint-Gilles.
🔗 Useful Links
Saint-Gilles Tourism — Official town website with visitor information.
Diocese of Nimes — Diocesan resources and parish information.
Association Compostelle — French pilgrimage association with credentials and route guides.
UNESCO World Heritage Centre — Official listing for the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.
🥾 Pilgrim Routes
Via Tolosana (GR 653) — The southernmost of the four historic French routes to Santiago de Compostela begins here in Saint-Gilles. The path leads west through Montpellier, Toulouse, and the Pyrenees at the Col du Somport, continuing through Aragon to join the Camino Frances. Total distance from Saint-Gilles to Santiago is approximately 1,800 km.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer (30 km south) — Relics of the Three Marys and Saint Sarah, with dramatic May and October processions to the sea.
Avignon (40 km north) — The Palace of the Popes and the bridge of Saint Benezet, heart of medieval Christendom during the Avignon Papacy.
Nimes (20 km north) — The cathedral of Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Castor, with Roman antiquities including the Maison Carree temple and the amphitheater.
Marseille (90 km east) — Notre-Dame de la Garde and the Abbey of Saint-Victor, major pilgrimage sites of Provence.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"The saints are like the stars: in His providence God has hidden them in secret places so that they do not shine before their time, but when their time comes, they emerge and illuminate the world." — St. Gregory the Great, Dialogues, c. 593 AD
