In 1279, workers excavating beneath an old church in Provence made a discovery that would shake the Christian world. Deep in the crypt, they found a sarcophagus containing bones and a skull with a fragment of flesh still attached to the forehead—the spot, tradition said, where the risen Christ had touched Mary Magdalene when he called her name in the garden. Charles II of Anjou declared these the authentic relics of the Apostle to the Apostles, and he vowed to build a basilica worthy of such a treasure.
Seven centuries later, pilgrims still descend into that same crypt to venerate the skull of Mary Magdalene, displayed in a gilded reliquary behind bulletproof glass. Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume—"Christianity's third vault" after Rome and Jerusalem—guards the remains of the woman who first proclaimed the Resurrection, who stood at the cross when the apostles fled, who was forgiven much because she loved much.
The pilgrimage does not end at the basilica. Fifteen kilometers away, the limestone cliffs of the Sainte-Baume massif rise from ancient forest, and high on the rock face a cave marks the place where, according to Provençal tradition, Mary Magdalene spent her final thirty years in penance and prayer. The climb through the primeval forest becomes itself a pilgrimage, the grotto at its summit a place of profound encounter.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
Provençal tradition holds that Mary Magdalene, along with Lazarus, Martha, and other disciples, fled persecution in the Holy Land and landed on the shores of Provence near modern-day Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. While her companions evangelized the region—Lazarus becoming the first bishop of Marseille—Mary withdrew to a cave in the Sainte-Baume massif for thirty years of contemplation.
The discovery of her presumed relics in 1279 transformed a small Provençal town into one of Christianity's most important pilgrimage centers. Charles II of Anjou, Count of Provence and King of Naples, commissioned the Gothic basilica that would take over two centuries to complete. The Dominican Order, entrusted with the shrine in 1295, has served it ever since—save for a brief interruption during the Revolution.
During the Terror, the relics were hidden by a brave lay woman who prevented their destruction when revolutionaries sacked the basilica. The skull survived; the skull's golden reliquary was melted down. A new reliquary was created after the restoration, and the pilgrimage resumed.
Pope Francis elevated the basilica to minor basilica status in 2017, recognizing Saint-Maximin's place among the world's great Marian and apostolic shrines. The July 22 feast of Mary Magdalene—elevated by Pope Francis in 2016 to a feast rather than a memorial—draws pilgrims from across Provence and beyond.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume
Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine
Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene
The largest Gothic church in Provence rises magnificently above the medieval town center. Construction began in 1295 under Charles II and continued until 1532, creating a unified Gothic masterpiece 73 meters long, 43 meters wide, and 29 meters high. The austere exterior gives no hint of the treasures within: Gothic choir stalls, Renaissance altarpieces by Antoine Ronzen, and a magnificent 18th-century organ. But the heart of the basilica lies below—the crypt where Mary Magdalene's relics rest in four ancient sarcophagi.
The Crypt and Reliquary
Beneath the basilica, the ancient crypt preserves four 4th-century sarcophagi said to contain the remains of Mary Magdalene, Saint Maximin (first bishop of Aix), Saint Sidoine (the man born blind whom Jesus healed), and Saint Marcelle. The skull reliquary, displayed behind bulletproof glass, shows the piece of forehead skin that tradition claims was touched by Christ.
Grotte de la Sainte-Baume
The Holy Cave
Fifteen kilometers from the basilica, high on the cliffs of the Sainte-Baume massif (994 meters), the sacred cave where Mary Magdalene spent her years of penance remains a place of profound pilgrimage. The climb through an ancient forest of beech and lime—protected since the Middle Ages—takes approximately 45 minutes from the parking area at the Hôtellerie de la Sainte-Baume. The Dominican friars celebrate daily Mass in the grotto chapel.
Couvent Royal
The former royal convent adjacent to the basilica, built by Dominican friars in the 13th century, now serves as a cultural center and occasional concert venue. Its cloister and gardens offer peaceful space for reflection.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of Saint Mary Magdalene — July 22
The principal feast brings pilgrims from across Provence and beyond to venerate the Apostle to the Apostles. Solemn Mass includes the ritual exposition of the skull reliquary. The Dominicans who serve the basilica lead processions and devotions throughout the day. Since Pope Francis elevated the feast in 2016, the celebration has grown in significance.
Procession of the Holy Relics — Last Sunday of May
A grand procession carries the relics of Mary Magdalene through the streets of Saint-Maximin, continuing a tradition established in the Middle Ages. The town participates with traditional dress, and streets decorated with flowers and banners create a colorful display of Provençal faith.
Ascension to the Grotto — Throughout the Year
The pilgrimage to the grotto is a continuous practice. Mass is celebrated daily in the grotto chapel, and pilgrims climb year-round to pray where Mary Magdalene is believed to have contemplated for thirty years.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Hôtellerie de la Sainte-Baume (pilgrim accommodation) — Dominican guesthouse at the base of the path to the grotto, offering simple rooms, meals, and spiritual programs. The ideal base for the grotto pilgrimage. Website
Hostellerie du Couvent Royal ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Four-star hotel in the former royal convent adjacent to the basilica, combining historic atmosphere with modern comfort. Reserve this hotel
Hôtel & Restaurant Plaisance ⭐⭐⭐ — Comfortable hotel in Saint-Maximin center with Provençal cuisine and easy access to the basilica. Reserve this hotel
🚗 Getting There
By Car: Saint-Maximin lies approximately 45 km east of Aix-en-Provence and 60 km west of Toulon. Take the A8 motorway and exit at Saint-Maximin. For the grotto, continue on the D560 toward the Plan d'Aups parking area.
By Train: The nearest TGV station is Aix-en-Provence TGV (35 km), with connections to Paris, Lyon, and Marseille. Regional trains serve Saint-Maximin station with connections to Marseille and Toulon.
By Bus: LER line 4721 connects Saint-Maximin to Aix-en-Provence and Marseille.
On Foot: From the Hôtellerie de la Sainte-Baume parking, the ascent to the grotto takes approximately 45 minutes through ancient forest. The path is well-marked but steep in places; wear appropriate footwear.
📚 Further Reading
Bernard Montagnes OP. Marie-Madeleine et la Sainte-Baume — Comprehensive history of the pilgrimage by a Dominican scholar.
Katherine Ludwig Jansen. The Making of the Magdalen — Academic study of Mary Magdalene's cult in medieval Provence.
Susan Haskins. Mary Magdalene: Myth and Metaphor — Exploration of Mary Magdalene's place in Christian tradition.
🎥 Recommended Videos
The Grotto of Saint Mary Magdalene — Pilgrim videos documenting the climb and grotto Mass.
🔗 Useful Links
Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene — Official basilica website with Mass times and visit information.
Sainte-Baume Dominican Center — Information about the grotto, retreat programs, and accommodation.
Diocese of Fréjus-Toulon — Diocesan pilgrimage resources.
Provence Tourism — Regional visitor information.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer (100 km) — Where Mary Magdalene and companions landed in Provence.
Cotignac (30 km) — Site of apparitions of Our Lady of Grace and St. Joseph.
Le Thoronet Abbey (40 km) — Cistercian abbey famous for its pure Romanesque architecture.
Aix-en-Provence (45 km) — Cathedral of Saint-Saveur and city of St. Mary Magdalene's companion Maximinus.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"Mary Magdalene went and announced to the disciples, 'I have seen the Lord.'" — John 20:18
