On Saturday, May 18, 1567, soldiers surrounded the Franciscan monastery of Csíksomlyó. Prince János Zsigmond of Transylvania had sent his troops to enforce the conversion of the monastery to Unitarianism, part of his campaign to erase Catholic practice from the Székely lands. The Catholic noblemen and peasants of the three Székely regions—Csík, Gyergyó, and Kászon—stood in the monastery courtyard, vastly outnumbered. Legend says they vowed before the wooden statue of the Madonna that if they survived this day, they and their descendants would make pilgrimage to Csíksomlyó every Pentecost for as long as their bloodlines endured. Miraculously, the prince's forces withdrew. The Catholics kept their word. Four hundred and fifty-nine years later, between 300,000 and 500,000 pilgrims still gather annually in the saddle between two volcanic hills for the Saturday before Pentecost Sunday—the largest Catholic gathering in Eastern Europe, a UNESCO-inscribed Intangible Cultural Heritage, and one of the most extraordinary spectacles of living faith anywhere in the world.
The shrine sits in Transylvania's Harghita County, in the heart of Székelyföld (Székely Land)—an ethnic Hungarian region of Romania where Hungarian remains the first language and Catholic devotion runs deep. The twin-towered Baroque basilica rises against the slopes of Nagy-Somlyó and Kis-Somlyó hills, visible for miles. Inside, enthroned above the main altar, stands Babba Mária—the miraculous Madonna of Csíksomlyó, a 227-centimeter linden-wood statue carved between 1510 and 1515, the largest Marian votive statue in the world. Pilgrims have knelt before her through wars, plagues, persecutions, Communist suppression, and political upheavals. She has outlasted empires. On June 1, 2019, Pope Francis knelt here and gifted her the Golden Rose, the highest papal honor bestowed on a Marian shrine.
This is not a quiet pilgrimage. It is thunder in the mountains—half a million footsteps converging on a single point, banners streaming in the wind, hymns rising from valley roads at midnight, entire villages walking through darkness to arrive by dawn. The Pentecost pilgrimage (Pünkösdi búcsú in Hungarian, Pelerinajul de Rusalii in Romanian) is visceral, collective, and profoundly ancestral—a vow made in blood and terror, kept across centuries.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The Franciscan presence at Csíksomlyó dates to 1442, when János Hunyadi—military governor of Transylvania and father of King Matthias Corvinus—founded a monastery on this hilltop to anchor Catholic faith in the eastern marches of Christendom. The Franciscans arrived from Bosnia, bringing their traditions of popular preaching and Marian devotion to a region perpetually contested between Catholic, Orthodox, and later Protestant powers. By 1444, construction of the first church had begun. The monastery served as spiritual fortress, hospital, school, and refuge.
The miraculous statue was carved sometime between 1510 and 1515 by an unknown sculptor, likely from the Swabian or Saxon communities of Transylvania. It depicts the Mulier amicta sole—the Woman Clothed with the Sun from Revelation 12—crowned with a triple tiara, holding a scepter, with the infant Christ in her left arm. The statue stands 227 centimeters tall, carved from linden wood, originally polychromed but now darkened by centuries of candle smoke and votive touch. From the moment of its installation, the Madonna was credited with miracles—healings, answered prayers, protection from Ottoman raids. Pilgrims began arriving not just from the Székely villages but from across Transylvania and Hungary.
Then came the crisis. In the mid-16th century, Transylvania became a battleground of the Reformation. Prince János Zsigmond embraced Unitarianism and sought to impose it throughout his realm. Catholic monasteries were ordered to convert or close. On May 18, 1567, his forces surrounded Csíksomlyó with orders to seize the monastery and expel the Franciscans. The Catholic Székelys—proud, fiercely independent, and bound by military tradition to defend their faith—gathered at the monastery. Accounts say they vowed to return annually in pilgrimage if their faith was spared. The prince's soldiers, for reasons never fully explained, withdrew. Within months, János Zsigmond died unexpectedly, and the persecution ceased. The Székelys kept their vow. The first organized Pentecost pilgrimage took place in 1568.
The pilgrimage became inseparable from Székely identity. During the centuries of Habsburg rule, Communist suppression, and Romanian nationalism, the annual gathering at Csíksomlyó was an act of cultural and spiritual defiance. Under Nicolae Ceaușescu's regime (1965-1989), the pilgrimage was restricted, surveilled, and sometimes violently suppressed, yet it never stopped. In 1990, after the fall of Communism, the pilgrimage exploded—over 300,000 pilgrims arrived that first free Pentecost, many openly weeping. By the 2000s, attendance regularly exceeded 400,000. In 2016, UNESCO inscribed the Csíksomlyói búcsújárás (Pilgrimage to Csíksomlyó) on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, recognizing its "continuity, community cohesion, and transmission of religious and cultural values across generations."
On September 29, 1798, Bishop Ignác Batthyány of Transylvania issued an official decree recognizing the Madonna of Csíksomlyó as miraculous, granting her the title Mater Admirabilis et Auxiliatrix contra Haereticos ("Wonderful and Helpful Mother in Protecting Against Heretics"). The Baroque basilica that pilgrims see today was built between 1804 and 1834 to accommodate growing crowds, replacing earlier Gothic and Renaissance structures. On December 23, 1948, Pope Pius XII elevated the church to the rank of Basilica Minor, one of only a handful in Eastern Europe.
Pope Francis's visit on June 1, 2019, during his apostolic journey to Romania, brought global attention. He celebrated Mass for 90,000 pilgrims at the outdoor Hármashalom altar, then entered the basilica to pray before the statue and present the Golden Rose—a privilege reserved for the holiest Marian sites. In his homily, he spoke of the shrine as a "house of mercy" and the pilgrimage as a sign of faith that "does not let itself be robbed of fraternal love, even in the darkest times."
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Șumuleu Ciuc
Basilica Minor & Franciscan Monastery
Csíksomlyói Kegytemplom és Ferences Kolostor
The twin-towered Baroque sanctuary dominates the hilltop, its ochre façade glowing against green slopes. The basilica's proportions are grand—designed to hold thousands—but the interior feels intimate, weighted with devotion. Every surface bears witness to centuries of prayer: votive plaques in Hungarian and Romanian, crutches left by the healed, embroidered banners from distant parishes. The ceiling frescoes, painted in the 19th century, depict scenes from Mary's life and the defense of the faith in Transylvania.
The main altar is simple but commanding. Above it, the miraculous statue of Babba Mária is enthroned in a wooden baldachin, flanked by angels and crowned with the triple papal tiara. Her face is serene, darkened by time, her left hand supporting the infant Christ, her right hand holding a golden scepter. Pilgrims approach on their knees, touching the base of the statue, leaving flowers and handwritten prayers. The statue has been carried in procession countless times—most famously in 1949, when Communist authorities banned the outdoor pilgrimage and 120,000 people defied the order, processing through Csík villages with the statue held high.
The adjoining Franciscan monastery remains an active religious house, home to a small community of friars who maintain the shrine, celebrate daily Mass, and offer spiritual direction. The monastery library preserves rare manuscripts, including records of miracles attributed to the Madonna dating to the 16th century. Visitors may request a tour with advance notice. Pope Francis prayed privately in the monastery chapel during his 2019 visit.
The Miraculous Statue of Our Lady — "Babba Mária"
Housed above the main altar within the basilica, the statue itself is the spiritual heart of the shrine. Carved from linden wood between 1510 and 1515, it stands 227 centimeters tall—taller than any human—depicting the apocalyptic Woman Clothed with the Sun. The statue's scale, craftsmanship, and age make it unique among Marian votive images. The triple crown (a papal tiara) was added in later centuries; the original may have been a simpler diadem. The infant Christ, held in Mary's left arm, is proportioned as a young child rather than an infant, and holds a globe representing his dominion over the world.
Babba is the Székely Hungarian term of endearment for "grandmother" or "matriarch," reflecting the intimate, familial relationship the Székely people feel toward this image. She is not distant or regal; she is theirs—protector, intercessor, mother. The statue's condition reflects its use: the base is worn smooth by hands, the wood surface darkened by candle smoke, the polychrome largely faded. Restoration efforts have been minimal by design—pilgrims prefer her as she is, marked by the touch of generations.
Hármashalom Outdoor Altar
Situated in a natural saddle between Nagy-Somlyó and Kis-Somlyó hills, approximately 700 meters from the basilica, the Hármashalom ("Three Mounds") altar is the epicenter of the Pentecost pilgrimage. The site was designed in 1996 by the late Hungarian organic architect Imre Makovecz, whose wooden structures echo traditional Székely forms while creating something entirely modern. The altar rises like a ship's prow, crowned with a wooden baldachin, surrounded by a vast grassy amphitheater that can hold 300,000 standing pilgrims.
On Pentecost Saturday at 1:00 PM, the papal legate or local archbishop celebrates Mass here. The hillside becomes a sea of people—parish banners fluttering, village keresztalja groups standing shoulder to shoulder, families spreading blankets, elderly pilgrims seated in wheelchairs, children perched on fathers' shoulders. The liturgy is in Hungarian and Romanian, with Latin for the Eucharistic Prayer. Hymns echo across the valley. Helicopters fly overhead for crowd management. The atmosphere is both ancient and immediate—half a million souls united in a single act of worship.
Outside of Pentecost, the site is quiet, open to pilgrims year-round. The hilltop offers panoramic views of the Ciuc basin and the Eastern Carpathians. Small wooden crosses mark the Stations of the Cross along the footpath.
Salvator Chapel — Kis-Somlyó Hill
The oldest chapel on the pilgrimage site, the Salvator (Savior) Chapel sits atop Kis-Somlyó Hill, reachable via a steep footpath known as Jézus-hágó ("The Pass of Jesus"). The chapel was consecrated in 1680 to commemorate János Hunyadi's great victory over the Ottoman Turks at the Battle of Belgrade in 1456, a turning point that saved Christian Europe from conquest. Hunyadi, the founder of the Csíksomlyó monastery, is buried in Alba Iulia, but this chapel honors his memory as both warrior and defender of the faith.
The chapel is small, whitewashed, with a single altar and wooden benches. Pilgrims climb the hill for solitude and sweeping views of the basilica, the Hármashalom altar, and the surrounding Székely villages. The path is lined with carved wooden crosses, each inscribed with prayers or names of deceased loved ones. On Pentecost weekend, small groups make the climb for sunrise prayer before descending to join the larger pilgrimage Mass.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Pentecost Pilgrimage (Pünkösdi búcsú / Pelerinajul de Rusalii) — Saturday before Pentecost Sunday (moveable date)
The greatest Catholic pilgrimage in Eastern Europe. Between 300,000 and 500,000 pilgrims converge on Csíksomlyó for the Saturday before Pentecost Sunday—typically late May or early June. This is not a modern revival; it is a living tradition unbroken since 1567, rooted in a vow made under threat of martyrdom.
Pilgrims arrive in organized groups called keresztalja (literally "those who carry the cross"), representing parishes and villages across Székelyföld, Hungary, and the global Hungarian diaspora. Each group carries a zászló (parish banner) embroidered with the patron saint of their village. Many walk overnight—20, 40, even 80 kilometers—arriving at dawn dusty, tired, and singing. The pilgrimage is multigenerational: grandparents who made the walk under Communist surveillance march alongside grandchildren who have never known anything but freedom.
The Mass at the Hármashalom altar begins at 1:00 PM. The celebrant is typically the papal nuncio or a cardinal dispatched by Rome, accompanied by the local archbishop and bishops from across Romania and Hungary. The liturgy is solemn, but the atmosphere is exuberant—hymns in Hungarian and Romanian, prayers in Latin, the Eucharist distributed to tens of thousands by hundreds of priests and deacons. After Mass, pilgrims process back to the basilica, many on their knees, to venerate the statue of Babba Mária. The day concludes with evening vespers, folk music, communal meals, and reunions of families scattered across borders.
Practical advice: Book accommodation at least six months in advance. Hotels in Miercurea Ciuc and surrounding towns fill completely. Many pilgrims camp in designated areas or sleep in vehicles. Public transport is overwhelmed; expect delays. Roads into Șumuleu Ciuc close to traffic by Friday evening. Arrive early Saturday morning or the night before. Bring water, sun protection, and stamina—this is an all-day event in an exposed hilltop meadow. The experience is worth every logistical challenge. You will witness something few places on earth can still produce: an entire people united in a single act of prayer.
Feast of the Assumption — August 15
The Solemnity of the Assumption of Mary is celebrated with special Masses at the basilica. While smaller than the Pentecost gathering, the feast draws thousands of pilgrims, particularly from Hungarian communities who venerate Mary as Magna Domina Hungarorum (Great Lady of the Hungarians). The day includes processions, Marian hymns, and evening candlelight vigil. The statue of Babba Mária is adorned with fresh flowers, and the basilica remains open for continuous adoration throughout the day.
Year-Round Pilgrimage
The basilica is open year-round for individual and group pilgrimages. Daily Mass is celebrated in Hungarian at 7:00 AM and 6:00 PM, with additional services on Sundays and holy days. The Franciscan friars offer confessions in Hungarian, Romanian, and sometimes German or English. May through October sees the highest number of visitors, with parish groups often arriving by bus for day pilgrimages. Winter pilgrimage is possible but roads can be snow-covered; the basilica is heated, and the sight of the statue surrounded by candlelight in a silent, snow-blanketed landscape has its own austere beauty.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Hotel Fenyő Conference & Spa ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Modern spa hotel 2.5 km from the shrine with thermal pools, sauna, conference facilities, and on-site restaurant serving traditional Hungarian and Romanian cuisine. Comfortable base for pilgrims seeking rest after the day's devotions. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Csiki Hotel ⭐⭐⭐ — Central Miercurea Ciuc location with clean, modern rooms and friendly multilingual staff. Breakfast included. Walking distance to restaurants and shops, 3 km from the basilica by car or local bus. Popular with pilgrims attending feast days. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hotel Restaurant Park ⭐⭐⭐ — Quiet setting 1.6 km from the shrine, family-run with traditional Transylvanian hospitality. On-site restaurant serves goulash, kürtőskalács (chimney cake), and local game dishes. Modest but welcoming, favored by returning pilgrims. Reserve this hotel
Hotel Merkur ⭐⭐ — Budget option near the train station, basic but clean. No-frills accommodation for pilgrims prioritizing proximity to the shrine over amenities. Shared bathrooms on some floors. Book early for Pentecost weekend. Reserve this hotel
Pentecost pilgrims: Accommodation in Miercurea Ciuc and within 30 km is completely booked months in advance. Consider staying in Brașov (105 km) or Târgu Mureș (120 km) and traveling by car or organized bus pilgrimage. Many pilgrims camp in designated areas near the shrine or sleep in their vehicles—this is culturally accepted and logistically supported by local authorities during Pentecost weekend.
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Brașov-Ghimbav International Airport (BV, 105 km southwest) offers limited domestic and European connections. Cluj-Napoca International Airport (CLJ, 235 km northwest) is the larger hub with flights from major European cities. Bucharest Henri Coandă Airport (OTP, 280 km south) provides the most international options. Rental cars available at all airports.
By Train: Romanian Railways (CFR) operates daily service from Bucharest Nord to Miercurea Ciuc (6 hours 40 minutes), passing through Brașov (3-4 hours from Miercurea Ciuc). Trains from Cluj-Napoca via Târgu Mureș take approximately 4-5 hours. Special pilgrimage trains run from Hungary during Pentecost weekend, routing through Oradea, Cluj-Napoca, and Târgu Mureș. The Miercurea Ciuc train station is 3 km from the Șumuleu Ciuc shrine.
By Bus: FlixBus and regional carriers operate services to Miercurea Ciuc from Bucharest (5-6 hours), Brașov (2.5 hours), and Cluj-Napoca (4 hours). During Pentecost, dozens of chartered pilgrimage buses arrive from Hungary, Slovakia, and the Hungarian diaspora. Book months ahead.
By Car: From Bucharest, take E574/DN1 north to Brașov, then DN12 north through Sfântu Gheorghe to Miercurea Ciuc (265 km, approximately 4 hours). From Cluj-Napoca, take E60/DN1 east to Târgu Mureș, then DN13/DN13A/DN12 southeast (235 km, 4 hours). Romania joined the Schengen Area for land borders on January 1, 2025—no passport controls when driving from Hungary via Oradea. Parking near the basilica is limited; during Pentecost, roads close to vehicles and pilgrims walk the final 3-4 km.
Local Transport: City buses 2, 3, 4, and 8 connect Miercurea Ciuc center to Șumuleu Ciuc. Taxis from the train station to the basilica take approximately 6 minutes and cost €2-4. Most pilgrims walk the 3.5 km uphill route, which takes 40-50 minutes.
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Kevin J. Wright, Catholic Shrines of Central and Eastern Europe: A Pilgrim's Travel Guide — Comprehensive guide to 70+ shrines across 11 countries including Hungary and Romania, with historical and practical information for pilgrims. (Liguori, 2014)
Janusz Rosikon, The Madonnas of Europe: Pilgrimages to the Great Marian Shrines — Richly illustrated volume profiling 70 Marian shrines across Europe, including Csíksomlyó, with over 200 color photographs and devotional commentary. (Our Sunday Visitor, 2007)
László Makkai & András Mócsy (editors), History of Transylvania, Vol. 1: From the Beginnings to 1606 — Scholarly history providing essential context for understanding the Reformation conflicts, Székely identity, and Catholic resilience that shaped the Csíksomlyó pilgrimage. (East European Monographs, 2001)
Online Resources:
Csíksomlyó Official Website — Sanctuary history, Mass schedules, pilgrimage information, and Franciscan spirituality resources in Hungarian and Romanian.
UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage: Whitsunday Pilgrimage — Official UNESCO inscription documentation with ethnographic details of the pilgrimage tradition, videos, and community testimonies.
🎥 Recommended Videos
The pilgrimage of Șumuleu Ciuc — UNESCO-produced documentary filmed during the Pentecost pilgrimage, capturing the overnight walks, village processions, and Mass at Hármashalom. Essential viewing for understanding the scale and spirit of the event. UNESCO, 2016.
🔗 Useful Links
Csíksomlyó Official Sanctuary — Mass schedules, history, Franciscan resources, and pilgrimage planning information in Hungarian and Romanian.
Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Alba Iulia — Official website of the archdiocese with liturgical calendar, diocesan news, and contact information for pastoral services.
Visit Harghita Tourism — Regional tourism board covering accommodation, dining, and cultural attractions in Harghita County and the Székely Land.
UNESCO ICH — Whitsunday Pilgrimage — Official inscription page with ethnographic documentation, videos, and community perspectives on the living tradition.
🥾 Pilgrim Routes
Via Mariae (M01) — Europe's major Marian pilgrimage route stretches 1,400 kilometers from Mariazell, Austria, through Hungary and into Transylvania, terminating at Csíksomlyó. The route connects dozens of smaller Marian shrines and passes through Budapest, Máriapócs, and the Carpathian foothills. Pilgrims walk sections or the full route, typically over multiple years. Waymarking is inconsistent in Romania; GPS navigation and local guides are recommended.
Pentecost Keresztalja Routes — A network of traditional walking routes radiating from Székely villages to Csíksomlyó, ranging from 20 to 80 kilometers. These are not marked formal pilgrimages but living traditions passed down through families and parishes. Each keresztalja group follows its ancestral route—some departing Friday afternoon, others walking through the night to arrive at dawn Saturday. Routes include: Gyergyószentmiklós (30 km), Tusnádfürdő (20 km), Kézdivásárhely (80 km), and Sepsiszentgyörgy (70 km). Join a parish group to experience the tradition authentically.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Máriapócs (305 km west, Hungary) — Site of the weeping icon of the Mother of God, a major pilgrimage shrine shared by Catholic and Orthodox faithful.
Zarvanytsia (316 km northeast, Ukraine) — Marian apparition site in western Ukraine, historically connected to the Eastern Catholic Church and Carmelite spirituality.
Mátraverebély-Szentkút (343 km west, Hungary) — Ancient Marian shrine in the Mátra Mountains, Hungary's northern pilgrimage center with miraculous spring.
Levoča (402 km north, Slovakia) — Gothic pilgrimage church housing the world's tallest wooden altar and the miraculous Madonna of Levoča, UNESCO World Heritage Site.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"In every shrine, she watches over us and makes intercession, not only with her Son but also with each of us, asking that we not let ourselves be robbed of our fraternal love." — Pope Francis, Homily at the Shrine of Sumuleu-Ciuc, June 1, 2019