On September 16, 1846, on the banks of the Han River at a place called Saenamteo, a 25-year-old Catholic priest named Andrew Kim Taegon knelt in the sand and bowed his head. He had been Korea's first native-born priest for barely a year. Before the executioner's blade fell, Kim spoke his final words: "This is my last hour of life, listen to me attentively: if I have held communication with foreigners, it has been for my religion and for my God. It is for Him that I die. My immortal life is on the point of beginning."
Within two decades, more than 8,000 Korean Catholics would follow him to martyrdom at sites across Seoul—beheaded at Jeoldusan, the "Hill of Decapitation" overlooking the Han River, or executed at the very spot where Kim died. Their blood would water what would become one of Asia's most vibrant Catholic communities. Today, Seoul stands as the only city in Asia with an official Vatican-recognized international pilgrimage route, a 44.1-kilometer journey connecting the sacred sites where Korean martyrs gave their lives for the faith.
The scale of Korean Catholicism's growth is extraordinary. In 1984, when Pope John Paul II canonized 103 Korean Martyrs during his visit to Seoul, Korea had fewer than two million Catholics. Four decades later, the Archdiocese of Seoul alone serves over two million faithful, and the country will host World Youth Day 2027—a testament to the martyrs' spiritual legacy. Walking Seoul's pilgrimage routes today means tracing the footsteps of laypeople, priests, and nobles who chose death over apostasy, and whose witness continues to inspire conversions across Asia.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
Korean Catholicism is unique in church history: it began not through missionaries, but through Korean scholars. In 1784, Yi Seung-hun traveled to Beijing as part of a diplomatic mission and was baptized by Jesuit missionaries. Returning to Korea with Catholic books and baptismal materials, he and a small group of scholars—including Paul Chong Hasang's father—began secretly practicing the faith and baptizing converts. By 1794, the first Chinese priest arrived to find an already established Christian community of 4,000 believers, organized entirely by laypeople.
The Korean state, however, viewed Catholicism as a seditious foreign ideology that rejected Confucian ancestor veneration and challenged the hierarchical social order. The first major persecution began in 1801, triggered by a convert's letter to the Bishop of Beijing asking for Western military intervention to secure religious freedom. The government executed 300 Catholics, including Paul Chong Hasang's father and the Chinese priest. Persecution would come in waves—1839, 1846, and the massive Byeongin persecution of 1866-1867.
Andrew Kim Taegon's martyrdom in 1846 was particularly significant. Born in 1821 to a noble family of converts, Kim traveled to Macau at age 15 to study for the priesthood—the first Korean to do so. Ordained in Shanghai in 1845, he returned to Korea and immediately began smuggling foreign missionaries into the country via the Yellow Sea coast. Arrested in June 1846, he refused repeated offers to renounce his faith. His execution at Saenamteo made him the first Korean Catholic priest and martyr.
The 1866 Byeongin persecution was the bloodiest. Triggered by French imperial ambitions and a convert's plot to overthrow the regent, it claimed approximately 8,000 Catholic lives over seven years. At Jeoldusan, the rocky bluff overlooking the Han River became Seoul's primary execution site. Catholics were beheaded in groups, their bodies thrown into the river. The site's Korean name translates to "Beheading Hill"—a place of terror that would become a shrine.
By the 1880s, Korea began opening to the West, and religious persecution gradually ceased. French missionaries arrived openly, establishing schools, hospitals, and the first Catholic parishes. Myeongdong Cathedral, completed in 1898, rose on the exact site where the persecutions had been planned in the regent's palace—a powerful symbol of transformation. The Gothic Revival structure, designed by French priest Eugene Coste, became the seat of Korea's first Catholic diocese.
The Second Vatican Council's emphasis on inculturation found fertile ground in Korea. Rather than suppressing Confucian values, Korean Catholicism incorporated respect for ancestors (through adapted memorial rites) and communal solidarity. The church became associated with democracy and human rights—Myeongdong Cathedral served as a sanctuary for pro-democracy activists during the 1970s-80s authoritarian period, cementing Catholicism's reputation as a force for justice.
Pope John Paul II's 1984 canonization of 103 Korean Martyrs transformed these execution sites into official pilgrimage destinations. The Vatican's 2018 recognition of Seoul's Catholic Pilgrimage Routes as Asia's first international pilgrimage marked another milestone. Today, pilgrims walk the same paths martyrs took to their deaths—from Myeongdong Cathedral through narrow Seoul streets to Jeoldusan and Saenamteo, praying at shrines built where blood once soaked the earth.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Seoul
Myeongdong Cathedral
Cathedral Church of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception
Seoul's Gothic Revival cathedral rises dramatically from the heart of the Myeongdong shopping district, its 45-meter twin spires visible for blocks. Completed in 1898, it was Korea's first Catholic parish church and remains the seat of the Archbishop of Seoul. French priest Eugene Coste designed the red and grey brick structure in the Gothic Revival style, with pointed arches, flying buttresses, and stunning stained glass windows imported from France and Hong Kong.
The cathedral occupies symbolic ground. It stands on the former site of the Joseon Dynasty officials' quarters—the very place where the persecutions were planned and ordered. The main altar houses relics of nine Korean martyrs, including Saints Andrew Kim Taegon and Paul Chong Hasang. The crypt chapel, where daily pilgrimage Masses are celebrated, creates an intimate space for prayer beneath the soaring nave above.
During Korea's democratization struggle (1970s-1980s), Myeongdong Cathedral became a sanctuary for activists fleeing police. The church's protection of dissidents, including Kim Dae-jung (later president and Nobel laureate), established it as a symbol of moral authority beyond its religious role. Today, it serves both as a functioning parish for 10,000 Catholics and as the starting point for Seoul's official pilgrimage routes.
Jeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine
Hill of Beheading
A rocky cliff rises 30 meters above the Han River's north bank—a natural promontory with commanding views. During the Byeongin persecution (1866-1871), Korean officials chose this site for mass executions of Catholics. Groups of believers were beheaded here and their bodies thrown into the river below. Approximately 2,000 martyrs died at Jeoldusan, making it the second-largest martyrdom site in Korean Catholic history after Seosomun.
The modern shrine complex, completed in 1967, transforms the execution ground into sacred space. At its heart stands a striking modernist chapel designed by architect Lee Hee-tai. The altar platform appears to float over the Han River, symbolically connecting the martyrs' blood with the waters below. Behind the chapel, the Korean Martyrs Museum houses over 500 relics, including execution swords, handwritten letters from martyrs awaiting death, and the original wooden torture devices used during interrogations.
The shrine's gardens descend the hillside in terraces. Life-size bronze statues depict martyrs at prayer and under torture. The Stations of the Cross wind through landscaped paths where pilgrims can walk and meditate. At river level, a small beach marks the approximate area where bodies were disposed—now a place of quiet reflection.
Pope John Paul II visited Jeoldusan on May 6, 1984, the very day he canonized 103 Korean Martyrs. His presence sanctified the site and drew international attention to Korea's martyrdom history. The shrine now attracts over 500,000 pilgrims annually, particularly during the September 20 feast day when outdoor Masses are celebrated overlooking the river.
Saenamteo Martyrs' Shrine
The sandy riverbank called Saenamteo witnessed the deaths of Korea's most prominent martyrs, including Andrew Kim Taegon and 11 of the 14 Korean priests martyred during the persecutions. The name literally means "new ferry crossing"—a practical execution site where bodies could be easily disposed of in the Han River. Between 1839 and 1866, approximately 200 Catholics were beheaded here, often after prolonged imprisonment and torture.
The modern shrine, consecrated in 1987, centers on a striking cylindrical memorial chapel designed by architect Kim Jung-soo. The round structure symbolizes eternity and the crown of martyrdom. Inside, the sanctuary's white walls create a contemplative space around a simple altar. Beneath the main floor, a lower chapel houses the actual relics of nine martyrs, preserved in a glass reliquary and illuminated by natural light from above.
The shrine grounds include a memorial wall inscribed with the names of all known Korean martyrs, arranged chronologically by execution date. A bronze sculpture depicts Andrew Kim Taegon's final moments, kneeling in prayer before execution. The museum building displays artifacts from the persecution era, including chains, execution records, and personal items recovered from martyrs' families.
Saenamteo's riverside location remains peaceful despite Seoul's urban sprawl. Willow trees line the walking paths, and benches face the river where martyrs' blood once flowed. The shrine is connected to Danggogae Martyrs' Shrine by the "Accord Trail," a 4-kilometer urban pilgrimage route that allows visitors to walk between two major martyrdom sites.
Danggogae Martyrs' Shrine
Perched on a hilltop in Seoul's Yongsan district, Danggogae Martyrs' Shrine overlooks the cityscape from what was once a remote execution ground outside the city walls. The name Danggogae (당고개) translates to "High Pass"—a place where criminals and political dissidents were traditionally executed. During the 1866 persecution, approximately 40 Catholics died here, making it the fourth-largest martyrdom site in Seoul.
The shrine's modernist chapel, completed in 1991, features clean lines and abundant natural light. Large windows frame views of Seoul, connecting the sacred space with the city the martyrs died to evangelize. The interior's minimalist design focuses attention on the tabernacle and a small reliquary containing bone fragments of martyrs executed at this site. The overall effect is meditative rather than monumental.
Adjacent to the chapel, the Martyr Museum (성인박물관) displays execution implements, period clothing, and documents related to the persecutions. Of particular interest are the handwritten testimonies of martyrs under interrogation—many refused to recant even under extreme torture. Educational displays explain the historical context of Korean persecution and the theological reasons Catholics refused the mandatory Confucian ancestor rites.
The shrine grounds include a Stations of the Cross path winding around the hilltop. Each station is marked by stone monuments and bronze reliefs. The peaceful gardens offer respite from urban Seoul while maintaining sight lines to the modern city—a reminder that martyrdom happened within a civilization, not in wilderness.
Seoul Catholic Pilgrimage Routes
In 2013, the Archdiocese of Seoul established official pilgrimage routes connecting the major martyrdom sites—a 44.1-kilometer network of paths through Seoul's historic districts. On September 14, 2018, the Vatican recognized these routes as Asia's first international pilgrimage destination, comparable to Santiago de Compostela and Lourdes. The designation marked a milestone for Asian Catholicism and positioned Seoul as a global pilgrimage center.
The routes are divided into three main trails, each designed for a half-day walk with guided commentary available in Korean, English, and Chinese:
Seosomun Route (4.5 km, 3 hours) begins at Myeongdong Cathedral and leads through Seoul's historic center to Seosomun Shrine, where the largest number of martyrs—44 of the 103 canonized saints—were executed. The route passes the former locations of prisons where Catholics were held before execution.
Hangang Route (4 km, 1.5 hours) connects Hapjeong Station to Jeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine, following the Han River embankment where bodies of the executed were disposed. The route offers views of modern Seoul alongside interpretation of martyrdom history.
Bukchon Route (3 km, 2 hours) winds through Bukchon Hanok Village's traditional Korean houses, visiting sites where early Catholic communities met in secret before the persecutions. The route emphasizes the lay origins of Korean Catholicism.
Pilgrims who complete the routes can obtain a pilgrimage stamp book (sullye passport) at Myeongdong Cathedral or any of the major shrines. Collecting stamps from each site creates a record of the journey, similar to the Credencial on the Camino de Santiago. Guided group walks depart from Myeongdong Cathedral on weekends, though individual pilgrims can walk the routes at any time using the archdiocese's mobile app for navigation and commentary.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Memorial of Saints Andrew Kim Taegon, Paul Chong Hasang, and Companions — September 20
The universal Church observes September 20 as the memorial of the 103 Korean Martyrs canonized by Pope John Paul II in 1984. In Seoul, the feast becomes a multi-day celebration centered on the martyrdom sites. Myeongdong Cathedral hosts a solemn pontifical Mass celebrated by the Archbishop of Seoul, attended by thousands including government officials, foreign ambassadors, and pilgrims from across Asia.
At Jeoldusan Martyrs' Shrine, an outdoor Mass is celebrated on the execution grounds overlooking the Han River. The liturgy includes traditional Korean music, incense processions, and the veneration of relics. After Mass, cultural performances dramatize the martyrs' stories through Korean traditional dance and music. Food stalls offer Korean Catholic cuisine, and vendors sell religious items, books, and pilgrimage memorabilia.
Saenamteo Shrine holds a special vigil Mass on September 19, the eve of the feast, focusing on Andrew Kim Taegon's martyrdom at that exact location. Young adults and seminarians often participate in an all-night prayer vigil, keeping watch as the martyrs once kept faith during imprisonment. At dawn on September 20, a sunrise Mass commemorates Kim's execution at daybreak.
World Youth Day 2027
Seoul will host World Youth Day in August 2027, bringing an estimated two million young Catholics from around the world. The event will transform Seoul's pilgrimage sites into gathering points for global Catholic youth. Myeongdong Cathedral will serve as a central venue, while the martyrdom shrines will host catechetical sessions, reconciliation services, and prayer vigils.
The Korean bishops have planned special programs highlighting the martyrs' witness as a model for young people facing contemporary challenges. The pilgrimage routes will be extended and enhanced with multilingual interpretation, and temporary facilities will accommodate the massive influx of pilgrims. For Seoul's Catholics, hosting World Youth Day represents the culmination of 240 years of faith history—from persecution to evangelization.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Le Meridien Seoul Myeongdong ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Luxury hotel adjacent to Myeongdong Cathedral, offering modern rooms with cathedral views from upper floors. Pilgrimage packages include breakfast and guided tours of martyrdom sites. Five-minute walk to Myeongdong subway station. Reserve this hotel
LOTTE City Hotel Myeongdong ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Business-class hotel two blocks from the cathedral with contemporary Korean design. Rooms feature floor heating (ondol) and marble bathrooms. Hotel restaurant serves excellent Korean breakfast buffet. Concierge can arrange English-speaking guides for pilgrimage sites. Reserve this hotel
Mohenic Hotel Seoul Myeongdong ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Boutique property emphasizing Korean aesthetics with traditional hanok design elements in modern setting. Rooftop terrace offers views toward Namsan Tower. Walking distance to cathedral and Myeongdong shopping district. Reserve this hotel
Stanford Hotel Myeongdong ⭐⭐⭐ — Mid-range option popular with pilgrims for its proximity to Myeongdong Cathedral (three-minute walk) and reasonable rates. Rooms are compact but clean with modern amenities. Staff experienced with pilgrim groups and can arrange transport to outer shrines. Reserve this hotel
Migliore Hotel Seoul Myeongdong ⭐⭐⭐ — Budget-friendly hotel connected to Migliore shopping center, offering convenience and value. Small rooms compensated by excellent location and helpful English-speaking staff. Breakfast buffet includes Western and Korean options. Reserve this hotel
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Incheon International Airport (ICN) serves as Seoul's main international gateway, located 45 kilometers west of the city. The Airport Railroad Express (AREX) connects Incheon Airport to Seoul Station in 43 minutes (₩9,500 for express, ₩4,150 for all-stop train). From Seoul Station, transfer to subway Line 4 for Myeongdong (two stops). Total journey time approximately 75 minutes. Airport limousine buses serve major hotels in Myeongdong area (60-80 minutes, ₩15,000).
By Train: Seoul Station serves as the terminus for Korea's high-speed KTX rail network, connecting to Busan (2.5 hours), Daegu (1.5 hours), and other cities. From Seoul Station, Myeongdong Cathedral is accessible via subway Line 4 (two stops to Myeongdong Station, Exit 5) or taxi (10 minutes, approximately ₩5,000). Yongsan Station, closer to Saenamteo Shrine, also serves KTX trains.
By Subway: Seoul's extensive subway system provides the most efficient way to reach pilgrimage sites. Myeongdong Cathedral: Line 4, Myeongdong Station, Exit 5 (five-minute walk). Jeoldusan Shrine: Line 2 or 6, Hapjeong Station, Exit 7 (15-minute walk). Saenamteo Shrine: Line 4, Samgakji Station, Exit 12 (10-minute walk). Single-journey tickets cost ₩1,350; T-money rechargeable cards offer convenience for multiple trips.
By Bus: Seoul's extensive bus network complements the subway, though routes can be confusing for non-Korean speakers. Most pilgrims find the subway more straightforward. Airport limousine buses (numbered 6001, 6015) serve Myeongdong hotels directly from Incheon Airport.
By Car: Rental cars are available at Incheon Airport and major hotels, though driving in Seoul is challenging due to traffic congestion and limited parking. Most pilgrimage sites lack dedicated parking; street parking requires Korean-language navigation apps. Taxis or ride-sharing (Kakao T app) are more practical for visitors.
Local Transport: Walking between Myeongdong Cathedral and nearby sites is pleasant via the Seosomun Pilgrimage Route. For Jeoldusan and Saenamteo shrines, use subway or taxi. Organized pilgrimage groups often charter buses for full-day tours of all major sites. The Archdiocese of Seoul offers guided group walks on weekends (registration via martyrs.or.kr website).
📚 Further Reading
Books:
Sara d'Mary, Saint Andrew Kim Taegon — Illustrated children's book introducing Korea's first Catholic priest and martyr through beautiful watercolor illustrations reflecting Korean culture. Excellent for young pilgrims preparing for Seoul visit.
Rev. Fr. John Trevor, Novena Prayers to St. Andrew Kim Taegon, St. Paul Chong Hasang, and Their Companions — Nine-day prayer book for devotion to the Korean Martyrs, including biographical sketches and traditional novena prayers. Useful for spiritual preparation before pilgrimage.
Online Resources:
Franciscan Media: Korean Martyrs — Comprehensive overview of the 103 martyrs with historical context and spiritual significance.
Catholic Encyclopedia: Andrew Kim Taegon — Detailed historical entry on Korea's first priest, including excerpts from his final letters.
🔗 Useful Links
Archdiocese of Seoul — Official archdiocese website with Mass schedules, pilgrimage information, and contact details for shrine offices.
Seoul Pilgrimage Route Official Site — Complete information on the Vatican-recognized pilgrimage routes, including maps, guided walk schedules, and pilgrim passport details.
Korea Tourism Organization: Myeongdong Cathedral — Practical visitor information including hours, admission (free), and accessibility details.
Visit Seoul: Pilgrimage Sites — City tourism office guide to Catholic heritage sites with transport information and nearby attractions.
🥾 Pilgrim Routes
Seoul Catholic Pilgrimage Routes — The 44.1-kilometer network of Vatican-recognized pilgrimage routes connects Seoul's major martyrdom sites through historic districts. Divided into three main trails (Seosomun 4.5km, Hangang 4km, Bukchon 3km), the routes begin at Myeongdong Cathedral and can be walked individually or as guided group pilgrimages. Pilgrims collect stamps in a sullye passport available at shrine offices. Mobile app provides GPS navigation and multilingual audio commentary. Routes designed for half-day walks with reflection stops at significant locations. See martyrs.or.kr for maps and schedules.
Accord Trail — A 4-kilometer urban walking route connecting Saenamteo Martyrs' Shrine to Danggogae Martyrs' Shrine through Yongsan district. The trail follows quiet residential streets and passes small chapels and monuments commemorating lesser-known martyrdom sites. Allow 1.5 hours for contemplative walking. Part of the larger Seoul pilgrimage network.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Solmoe Shrine, South Korea (150 km southwest) — Birthplace of St. Andrew Kim Taegon in South Chungcheong Province. The humble farmhouse where Kim was born in 1821 has been preserved as a shrine, surrounded by the Solmoe Cathedral basilica completed in 1991. The site includes museums, prayer gardens, and the graves of Kim's father and great-grandfather, both also martyred. Accessible via KTX train to Asan Station (1 hour from Seoul) plus local bus or taxi.
Waegwan Abbey, Daegu, South Korea (240 km southeast) — Benedictine monastery founded in 1952 by German monks fleeing communism in North Korea. The abbey's solemn liturgies and Gregorian chant offer contrast to Seoul's urban pilgrimage sites. Guesthouse accommodations available for retreatants. The nearby city of Daegu has its own martyrdom sites and Catholic heritage trail. Accessible via KTX train (1.5 hours from Seoul).
Oryundae Korean Martyrs Museum, Busan, South Korea (325 km southeast) — Three-story museum in Korea's second-largest city housing over 500 relics from martyrs, early Catholic Church in Korea, and Joseon Dynasty Catholic nobility. Located on Catholic Street in Busan's Choryang district, surrounded by Catholic institutions including seminaries and religious orders. Combine with visit to nearby Beomeosa Temple. Accessible via KTX train (2.5 hours from Seoul).
Haemi Martyrdom Site, South Korea (160 km southwest) — Historic fortress town where approximately 1,000 Catholics were martyred between 1866-1882, many buried alive in mass graves. The Haemi Castle preserves execution grounds, prison cells, and a massive memorial wall. Less visited than Seoul sites but profoundly moving. Accessible by bus from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (3 hours) or car.
🪶 Closing Reflection
Standing on the execution grounds at Jeoldusan, looking down at the Han River flowing as it has for millennia, the question becomes unavoidable: What would make thousands of ordinary Koreans choose decapitation over a simple ritual bow to their ancestors? The martyrs weren't refusing to honor their forebears—Confucian filial piety resonated deeply with Christian teaching. They were refusing to treat ancestors as deities, to place any created being above the Creator.
Pope Francis, addressing the Korean Catholic community, called them "children of martyrs" and reminded them that "apostolic zeal cannot be negotiated." The martyrs' witness came from conviction that transcended culture—the universal truth that Christ alone is Lord. Yet paradoxically, that very transcendence took root in Korean soil precisely because early Catholic scholars discovered Christianity through their own intellectual seeking, not foreign imposition.
Walking Seoul's pilgrimage routes means encountering this paradox at every shrine. Myeongdong Cathedral's Gothic spires rise from the ashes of the regent's palace. Saenamteo's riverbank, soaked with martyrs' blood, is now manicured parkland where children play. The transformation isn't triumphalist—it's organic, the natural fruit of seeds that die to produce a harvest.
For contemporary pilgrims, Seoul offers a distinctive gift: martyrdom without distance. Unlike ancient catacombs or medieval relics, Korean martyrdom happened in the modern era, documented in court records, witnessed by living memory's grandparents. Andrew Kim Taegon's final letters survive in his own hand. The torture devices that broke Catholics' bodies are displayed in museums, not medieval dungeons. The martyrs faced choices we can understand—career advancement, family safety, social acceptance—and chose Christ instead.
As Seoul prepares to welcome millions for World Youth Day 2027, the martyrs' witness speaks directly to young Catholics navigating secular modernity's pressures. The Korean martyrs didn't retreat from culture—they engaged it deeply, then discerned where engagement must become resistance. Their example isn't nostalgia for Christendom but a blueprint for evangelical courage in secular pluralism.
The pilgrimage routes themselves embody this balance: ancient faith walked through ultramodern Seoul, martyrdom sites surrounded by Samsung offices and K-pop billboards, sacred and secular not separated but interpenetrating. The martyrs sanctified this ground not by fleeing the world but by refusing to worship it. Their blood consecrated the city they loved enough to die for.
