In the late third century, a Roman legion marched through the Alpine pass at Agaunum on its way to suppress a rebellion in Gaul. The soldiers were Christians from the Thebaid of Egypt, commanded by an officer named Maurice. When Emperor Maximian ordered them to sacrifice to pagan gods and to massacre the Christian inhabitants of the region, Maurice and his men refused. Maximian ordered decimation—every tenth soldier executed. The survivors still refused. A second decimation followed, then a third. Finally, the emperor commanded the slaughter of the entire legion. Tradition holds that 6,666 soldiers died that day, their blood sanctifying the rocky ground where the oldest continuously existing monastery in the Western world would rise.
In 515, King Sigismund of Burgundy—the first of his dynasty to embrace Trinitarian Christianity—founded an abbey on the site of the martyrdom. He instituted the laus perennis, perpetual praise: choirs of monks singing the Divine Office in rotation, day and night, without ceasing. This innovation, borrowed from the Sleepless Monks of Constantinople, continued for centuries. Fifteen hundred years later, the Canons Regular of St. Augustine still maintain their tradition of prayer at this place where the blood of martyrs became the seed of Christian civilization in the Alps.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The veneration of St. Maurice and his companions began almost immediately after their martyrdom. Around 370, Theodorus (Theodulus), Bishop of Octodurum, constructed a small shrine over the martyrs' graves. This earliest memorial has been confirmed by archaeological excavation. The bishop was present at the Council of Aquileia in 381, placing the shrine's construction firmly in the fourth century.
The primary written account of the martyrdom comes from Eucherius, Bishop of Lyon, who composed his Passio martyrum Acaunensium around 450 AD—approximately 150 years after the events described. While scholars debate the historical details, the cult of St. Maurice spread rapidly throughout medieval Europe. He became patron saint of soldiers, of the Papal Swiss Guard, and of the Alpine infantry. The Order of the Knights of St. Maurice, founded by the Dukes of Savoy, carried his veneration into the modern era.
Sigismund's foundation of 515 represented something new in Western monasticism. The laus perennis required multiple choirs rotating through the twenty-four hours, never allowing the praise of God to cease. This arrangement continued until the ninth century, when canons replaced monks. The community transitioned to the Rule of St. Augustine and has continued under that discipline to the present day. Some twenty-seven canons currently serve the abbey, with vocations arriving from locations as diverse as Sicily, Benin, and Kazakhstan.
The abbey's treasury ranks among the richest in the Christian world. Medieval pilgrims and royal patrons enriched the collection with masterpieces spanning fifteen centuries: the seventh-century Casket of Teuderic, covered in garnets and Roman gems; the Sardonyx Vase, a Greco-Alexandrine masterwork from the first century BC traditionally given by Martin of Tours; the golden Ewer associated with Charlemagne; and the Holy Thorn Reliquary given by King St. Louis IX of France in 1262, containing a single thorn from the Crown of Thorns. These treasures, preserved through wars and revolutions, testify to the veneration accorded to St. Maurice and his companions.
The abbey's location against a cliff face has challenged every generation. A massive rockfall in 1611 severely damaged the complex, and a rock destroyed the church's spire and portal in 1942. The current basilica, built in the seventeenth century, is the ninth church on this site. Archaeological excavations have revealed the series of Carolingian-era churches built one atop another from the fifth to eleventh centuries, along with crypts dating from the fourth to eighth centuries.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Saint-Maurice
Abbaye de Saint-Maurice
Abbey of Saint-Maurice
The abbey complex encompasses the seventeenth-century basilica, the eleventh-century Romanesque bell tower, the treasury, the archaeological excavations, and the canons' quarters. The church preserves features spanning twelve centuries to the present, including an early example of the ambulatory plan with radiating chapels. The canons gather for the Liturgy of the Hours throughout the day, continuing the tradition of prayer established in 515.
Trésor de l'Abbaye
Abbey Treasury
One of the finest ecclesiastical treasuries in Christendom, the collection includes early medieval reliquaries, Byzantine enamelwork, and royal gifts spanning fifteen centuries. The Casket of Teuderic (seventh century), the Sardonyx Vase (first century BC), the Ewer of Charlemagne, and the Holy Thorn Reliquary of St. Louis represent highlights that draw scholars and pilgrims from around the world. The treasury also includes a relic of St. Louis himself, acquired in recent years.
Fouilles Archéologiques
Archaeological Excavations
Excavations beneath the abbey have revealed the full history of Christian presence at Agaunum. Visitors can see the fourth-fifth century baptistry, the successive Carolingian churches, and the crypts where early Christians venerated the martyrs. A first-century BC Roman shrine to Mercury marks the pre-Christian sacred character of the site. Access is by guided tour.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Feast of St. Maurice — September 22
The principal feast of the abbey draws pilgrims to honor the soldier-martyr and his companions. Solemn liturgies, procession with relics through the streets of Saint-Maurice, and the annual Monastic Market—with approximately thirty religious communities from France, Switzerland, and Italy—mark the celebration. The collect of the Mass prays: "Grant, we beseech Thee, O almighty God, that the solemn festival of Thy holy martyrs, Maurice and his companions, may bring us joy."
🛏️ Where to Stay
Hôtellerie Franciscaine (pilgrim accommodation) — Run by the Franciscan Order, this peaceful guesthouse stands 200 meters from the abbey. Simple, practical rooms with desk and en suite bathroom. Restaurant serving authentic Swiss cuisine and Valais specialties. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
Hôtel de la Dent-du-Midi ⭐⭐⭐ — Family-run hotel in the heart of Saint-Maurice, a three-minute walk from the station and four-minute walk from the abbey. Free breakfast, WiFi, parking. Restaurant and bar on site. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel
🚗 Getting There
By Train: Saint-Maurice station lies on the main rail line through the Rhône Valley. Swiss Federal Railways (SBB) and RegionAlps operate frequent service from Geneva (approximately 1 hour 35 minutes, direct trains available) and from major Swiss cities via connections at Lausanne or Martigny.
By Car: Saint-Maurice sits in the Rhône Valley on the route between Geneva and the Simplon Pass. From Geneva, follow the A1/E62 toward Martigny (approximately 85 km, 1 hour). Parking available near the abbey.
By Air: Geneva Airport is approximately 100 km distant. Direct train connections to Saint-Maurice as described above.
On Foot: Saint-Maurice lies on the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage route from Canterbury to Rome. Pilgrims walking from Lausanne toward the Great St. Bernard Pass pass through the town.
📚 Further Reading
Abbey of Saint-Maurice d'Agaune — Wikipedia article with detailed history and links to scholarly sources.
Medieval Histories: Treasure of the Abbey of Saint-Maurice — Scholarly overview of the treasury's masterpieces.
🎥 Recommended Videos
L'Abbaye de Saint-Maurice — French-language documentary exploring the abbey's history and spiritual life.
🔗 Useful Links
Abbaye de Saint-Maurice — Official abbey website with visiting information, treasury hours, and liturgical schedule.
Saint-Maurice Tourisme — Regional tourism information.
Swiss Federal Railways (SBB) — Train schedules and tickets.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Great St. Bernard Hospice (40 km via mountain pass) — Founded in the eleventh century by St. Bernard of Menthon, this Augustinian hospice has sheltered pilgrims crossing between Switzerland and Italy for nearly a millennium. At 2,469 meters, it marks the highest point on the Via Francigena.
Valère Basilica, Sion (35 km east) — Twelfth-century fortified church with Minor Basilica status, containing the world's oldest playable organ (1431-1437). Pilgrimage destination for the statue of Our Lady.
🪶 Closing Reflection
"Grant, we beseech Thee, O almighty God, that the solemn festival of Thy holy martyrs, Maurice and his companions, may bring us joy, that we may glory in the natal day of those upon whose patronage we lean." — Collect for the Feast of St. Maurice, September 22
