In 1710, a Spanish priest named Miguel Robles de Covarrubias, suffering from blindness in his left eye, made a vow to Our Lady of Peña de Francia. If his sight returned, he would build a chapel in her honor in Nueva Caceres—the colonial name for what is now Naga City. When his vision was restored, Father Miguel kept his promise. Along the banks of the Bikol River, he mobilized natives from the slopes of Mount Isarog to construct a simple chapel of nipa and bamboo. From a small holy card he always carried, a local artisan carved a wooden replica of the Spanish Madonna. No one could have imagined that this humble image would become Ina—Mother—the patroness of the entire Bicol region, drawing over 1.5 million pilgrims annually to one of Asia's most spectacular Marian festivals.
Every September, the Naga River transforms into a river of faith as voyadores—oarsmen dressed in golden shirts—transport the miraculous image on a flower-bedecked pagoda (barge) in a fluvial procession witnessed by millions lining the riverbanks. This Traslacion from the cathedral to the basilica has become one of the Philippines' greatest displays of Marian devotion, with pilgrims traveling from across the archipelago to touch the sablay (ceremonial sash) of their beloved Ina.
The Bicol region's deep Catholic roots, planted by Spanish missionaries in 1573, found their fullest expression in this devotion. Today, Naga City—known as the "Pilgrim City of the Philippines"—welcomes seekers of healing, hope, and the maternal intercession of the Virgin who has watched over Bicolanos for more than three centuries.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The devotion to Our Lady of Peñafrancia originated in the Spanish town of Peña de Francia, Salamanca, where a Marian image was discovered in 1434 by a French shepherd named Simon Vela. When Miguel Robles de Covarrubias, a native of nearby San Martin del Castañar, came to study at the University of Santo Tomas in Manila, he brought his profound devotion to this Spanish Madonna with him.
Called to Nueva Caceres by Bishop Andres Gonzalez, OP, Father Miguel was ordained and became both parish priest of the cathedral and Vicar General of the Diocese. When blindness struck his left eye, he invoked Our Lady of Peña de Francia with a solemn promise: restore his sight and he would build her a stone church in the new world. His vision returned, and in 1710, he fulfilled the first part of his vow by constructing a bamboo and nipa chapel along the Bikol River—not at the Pasig location he originally envisioned, but at a site chosen by the Virgin herself, according to local tradition.
Father Miguel commissioned a local woodcarver to create an image based on his treasured estampita (holy card). The resulting statue depicted Mary crowned and seated, holding the Child Jesus who bears the orb and cross. In her right hand, the Virgin holds a papal ferula (staff), a unique iconographic element that distinguishes the Peñafrancia image from other Marian devotions.
The stone church Father Miguel promised was finally erected in 1741 under Bishop Ysidro de Arevalo—though whether Father Miguel lived to see its completion remains unknown to history. What is certain is that devotion to Nuestra Señora de Peñafrancia spread rapidly throughout the Bicol region and beyond.
The tradition of the Traslacion—the transfer of the image from the cathedral to the shrine—dates to the late 18th century, though the spectacular fluvial procession on the Naga River only became established in the early 20th century. Originally, the image was carried overland, but the massive crowds made passage difficult. The solution was found on the river, where decorated barges could carry the Virgin while thousands could witness from the banks.
The image received Pontifical Coronation on September 20, 1924, by Papal Nuncio Monsignor Guglielmo Piani. Pope Pius XI authorized the coronation, recognizing the extraordinary devotion of Filipino Catholics to their Ina. The centennial of this coronation was celebrated in 2024 with great solemnity, including a message from Pope Francis.
In 1976, the shrine was elevated to the status of Minor Basilica by Pope Paul VI—the only basilica in the entire Bicol region and the Archdiocese of Caceres. The full title is the Minor Basilica and National Shrine of Our Lady of Peñafrancia.
The devotion centers on the maternal protection of Mary. Ina is invoked by fishermen facing typhoons, mothers during childbirth, students before examinations, and families in crisis. The most moving moment of the festival comes when the voyadores, having transported the image by river, carry her on their shoulders through streets lined with devotees reaching out to touch the golden sablay that trails behind—a gesture believed to transmit the Virgin's blessing and healing power.
Miracles attributed to Our Lady of Peñafrancia are numerous and well-documented by the shrine. Healings, conversions, protection from natural disasters, and answered prayers have been reported for three centuries. The archive at the basilica contains thousands of testimonies and ex-votos offered in thanksgiving.
During World War II, when Naga City was heavily damaged by Allied bombing in 1945, the image of Our Lady of Peñafrancia survived unscathed—a fact attributed to miraculous protection and deepening the devotion of the faithful in the post-war years.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Naga City
Basilica Minore of Our Lady of Peñafrancia
Basílica Menor de Nuestra Señora de Peñafrancia
The present basilica, built in the mid-20th century, stands on the site of Father Miguel's original 1710 chapel along Balatas Road on the outskirts of Naga City. The architecture is modern, designed to accommodate the massive crowds that arrive year-round but especially during the September novena. The interior is spacious and light-filled, with the miraculous image enshrined above the main altar in an ornate camarín (chamber).
The crowned statue, measuring approximately 4 feet tall, depicts the Virgin seated with the Child Jesus on her lap. Both wear elaborate vestments that are changed according to the liturgical season. The image is dark-complexioned, leading to her affectionate title Ina ng Bicolandia (Mother of Bicolandia). Her face bears a serene, slightly smiling expression that has consoled millions.
Outside the basilica, pilgrims can visit the shrine shop offering religious articles, candles, and sablay sashes. A museum adjacent to the basilica displays vestments, ex-votos, historical photographs of past festivals, and documents related to the Pontifical Coronation.
The basilica is open daily for Mass and private prayer. During the September novena (September 13-20), the schedule expands dramatically with Masses celebrated in multiple languages and special devotions including the Salve Regina sung in Latin.
Naga Metropolitan Cathedral
Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist
The Naga Metropolitan Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist, serves as the cathedra (seat) of the Archbishop of Caceres and plays a central role in the Peñafrancia festival. Each year, the miraculous image is transferred from the basilica to the cathedral for the nine-day novena before returning via the famous fluvial procession.
Construction of the present cathedral began in 1808 under Bishop Bernardo de la Concepcion and was completed and consecrated in 1843 during the episcopate of Tomas Ladron de Guevara. Built in Spanish Romanesque Revival style, the cathedral has endured typhoons (1856) and earthquakes (1887), requiring several restorations. The most recent major restoration occurred in 1987-1988 under Archbishop Leonardo Zamora Legaspi.
The cathedral's twin bell towers are visible throughout the city center. The interior features a high vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows depicting biblical scenes, and side chapels dedicated to various saints. During the Peñafrancia novena, the miraculous image is enthroned on a specially constructed platform near the main altar, allowing thousands of pilgrims to file past in veneration.
The cathedral also houses relics of Bicol's martyrs and several historic religious artifacts, including colonial-era chalices and vestments. Masses are celebrated daily in Bikol, Tagalog, and English.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Peñafrancia Festival — Second and Third Weekends of September
The Peñafrancia Festival is the largest Marian festival in Asia and one of the Philippines' most spectacular religious celebrations, attracting 1.5 to 2 million pilgrims annually. The festival spans nine days, culminating in the fluvial procession and feast day.
Novena (September 13-20, dates vary annually): The nine-day novena begins when the image is transferred from the basilica to the cathedral in a solemn Traslacion Peñafrancia. This land procession features male devotees carrying the image on a carroza (carriage) through the streets while millions of devotees accompany on foot, singing the Dios Te Salve hymn. The novena Masses at the cathedral are celebrated multiple times daily, with special homilies on Marian devotion.
Fluvial Procession (Third Saturday of September, typically September 19): The centerpiece of the festival is the Traslacion Fluvial, when the image returns from the cathedral to the basilica via the Naga River. At dawn, the image is carried to the riverbank and placed aboard an elaborately decorated pagoda (ceremonial barge). The voyadores—hundreds of oarsmen in traditional golden shirts and red bandanas—row the barge along a 3.5-kilometer route on the river while millions line the banks, singing, praying, and waving white handkerchiefs.
The procession is accompanied by dozens of smaller boats carrying devotees, brass bands, and clergy. The sight of the flower-decked barge moving slowly upriver, surrounded by devotees, is one of the most moving spectacles in Philippine Catholicism. The procession concludes when the image arrives at the basilica wharf and is carried in solemn procession to her shrine.
Feast Day (Third Sunday of September, typically September 20): The festival concludes with Solemn Pontifical Mass celebrated by the Archbishop of Caceres at the basilica. Thousands attend, overflowing into the surrounding streets where the Mass is broadcast on loudspeakers. Special blessings are given, and the sablay is carried through the crowds for veneration.
Throughout the festival, Naga City hosts cultural events, parades, concerts, and a religious trade fair. Pilgrims come not only from Bicol but from across the Philippines and the global Filipino diaspora. Hotels are fully booked months in advance, and the city's population swells dramatically.
Canonical Coronation Anniversary — September 20
The anniversary of the 1924 Pontifical Coronation is celebrated with special solemnity. In 2024, the centennial was marked by a papal message from Pope Francis, a re-coronation ceremony, and the unveiling of a mosaic image of Our Lady of Peñafrancia in the Vatican Gardens—the first Filipino Marian image to receive this honor.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Villa Caceres Hotel ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — Well-established hotel in the city center, walking distance to Naga Metropolitan Cathedral. Air-conditioned rooms, restaurant, and business center. Popular with pilgrims during the September festival; book months in advance. Reserve this hotel
GO Hotels Plus Naga ⭐⭐⭐ — Budget-friendly chain hotel located at Robinsons Place Naga, convenient for shopping and dining. Clean, modern rooms with Wi-Fi. Good value for pilgrims on a budget. 2 km from the cathedral. Reserve this hotel
UMA Hotel and Residences (boutique hotel) — Upscale accommodations 1.2 miles from SM City Naga, featuring a rooftop pool, fitness center, and restaurant. Spacious rooms with contemporary design. Ideal for pilgrims seeking comfort after long days of devotion. Available via major booking platforms.
Pilgrim accommodations: During the September festival, many families in Naga open their homes to pilgrims, offering rooms at modest rates or by donation. The Archdiocese of Caceres can provide information on parish-based accommodations. Contact the shrine office directly for referrals.
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Naga Airport (WNP), officially Pili Airport, is located 7.5 miles (12 km) from Naga City center. Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines, and Cebgo operate approximately 6 flights weekly from Manila (Ninoy Aquino International Airport, MNL), with flight time of 1 hour 20 minutes. Tricycles and taxis are available at the airport for transfer to the city (PHP 150-300, 20-30 minutes).
By Bus: Naga City is well-connected to Manila by long-distance bus services. Travel time is 8-10 hours depending on traffic. Major operators include Isarog Bus Lines (bicolisarog.com), Penafrancia Bus Tours (penafranciabus.com), Raymond Bus (raymondbus.com), and DLTBco. Buses depart from Manila terminals in Cubao, Pasay, and EDSA. Fares range from PHP 950 to PHP 1,500. Most buses offer air-conditioned coaches with reclining seats. Book online or at terminals.
By Car: From Manila, take the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX) to its terminus, then continue on National Highway (Pan-Philippine Highway/AH26) through Quezon Province and Camarines Sur to Naga City. Total distance is approximately 409 km, taking 8-10 hours depending on traffic. Parking is available near the basilica (Balatas Road) and in the city center near the cathedral.
Local Transport: Tricycles (motorized rickshaws) are the primary mode of local transport in Naga City, charging PHP 10-50 for short trips within the city. Jeepneys operate on fixed routes connecting major points. During the Peñafrancia festival, road closures and heavy crowds may require walking significant distances. Plan accordingly.
🔗 Useful Links
Archdiocese of Caceres — Official archdiocesan website with information on the Peñafrancia Shrine, Mass schedules, and festival dates.
Naga City Government — City tourism information, maps, and practical visitor guidance.
Cebu Pacific — Low-cost carrier serving Manila-Naga route.
Philippine Airlines — Flag carrier with Manila-Naga flights.
Isarog Bus Lines — Major bus operator for Manila-Naga route.
🥾 Pilgrim Routes
Traslacion Land Route — The annual Traslacion Peñafrancia follows a 6-kilometer route from the basilica on Balatas Road to Naga Metropolitan Cathedral in the city center. Pilgrims walk behind the carroza carrying the image, stopping at designated points for prayers and hymns. The procession takes 4-6 hours depending on crowd size and typically occurs on the Friday before the fluvial procession. Devotees are encouraged to join at any point along the route.
Traslacion Fluvial Route — The return journey via the Naga River covers approximately 3.5 kilometers from the cathedral wharf to the basilica landing. While the voyadores row the pagoda bearing the image, devotees can join on smaller hired boats or watch from designated viewing points along the riverbanks. The procession begins at dawn (typically 6:00 AM) and lasts 2-3 hours.
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
Our Lady of Fatima Shrine, Iriga City (30 km southwest) — Archdiocesan shrine in the neighboring city of Iriga, established in honor of the 1917 Fatima apparitions. Features outdoor Stations of the Cross and regular pilgrim Masses.
St. Anthony of Padua Shrine, Iriga City (30 km southwest) — Also located in Iriga City, this archdiocesan shrine honors the beloved Franciscan saint. Popular among devotees seeking St. Anthony's intercession.
Daraga Church (Our Lady of the Gate), Daraga (85 km southeast) — A stunning baroque church built from volcanic rock in 1773, perched on a hill with dramatic views of Mayon Volcano. One of the most photographed churches in the Philippines. Dedicated to Our Lady of the Gate (Nuestra Señora de la Porteria), patroness of Daraga. The church survived the 1814 eruption that buried nearby Cagsawa.
Cagsawa Ruins, Albay (90 km southeast) — The remains of Cagsawa Church, buried by the catastrophic eruption of Mayon Volcano on February 1, 1814, which killed an estimated 1,200 people sheltering in the church during a festival. Only the bell tower remains standing, a haunting monument to faith and natural disaster. Not an active pilgrimage site but historically significant and frequently visited alongside Daraga Church.
🪶 Closing Reflection
To witness the Traslacion Fluvial is to see an entire people's faith made visible. In the pre-dawn darkness, as the voyadores row their golden-shirted rhythms across the Naga River, and as a million voices rise in the Dios Te Salve, one understands why Ina has captured Bicol's heart for three centuries. This is not merely tradition or spectacle. It is the lived faith of a people who know that the Mother of God hears the prayers of the poor, heals the brokenhearted, and shelters her children beneath her mantle.
Father Miguel Robles de Covarrubias, kneeling in his simple bamboo chapel in 1710, could not have imagined this—but perhaps the Virgin he loved so dearly could. She knew that in bringing her image to the banks of the Bikol River, she was planting a seed that would grow into one of Asia's greatest expressions of Marian devotion. Come to Naga. Join the millions along the river. Touch the sablay. Call on Ina. She is waiting.
