On the morning of 9 September 1993, a crowd of hundreds of thousands filled the fields around a small Latvian village — more people than had gathered anywhere in this land since the Soviet occupation ended. They had come, many on foot from distant cities, to see a Pope who had helped bring down the empire that had silenced their faith for half a century. When John Paul II stepped onto the platform before the Aglona Basilica and raised his hands in blessing, the crowd wept. Latvia had been free for just two years. The white towers of the basilica, rising above the pine forests of Latgale, had endured.
That moment crystallised what Aglona has always been: not merely a pilgrimage destination, but the spiritual heart of a nation. This remote village of barely a thousand souls in eastern Latvia has drawn pilgrims for over three centuries, since Dominican friars carried a sacred icon of the Virgin Mary from Vilnius to these pine-forested shores between two lakes. Each August 15, the Feast of the Assumption, it draws upwards of 300,000 faithful — the largest annual religious gathering in the Baltic states.
The landscape seems fitting for such a role. Aglona sits between Lake Cirīšs and Lake Egles on the gently rolling hills of Latgale, a region whose Catholic identity survived tsarist suppression, Soviet atheism, and deportations to Siberia. Here, faith was passed on in kitchens and forest clearings; here, on August 15, it erupts into the open with the force of something long compressed. The pilgrims who walk for a week from Riga and longer from Liepāja are not merely fulfilling a religious obligation — they are continuing an act of cultural survival.
📜 History & Spiritual Significance
The story of Aglona as a Catholic sanctuary begins in 1697, when a local Polish noblewoman named Jeta-Justīna Šostovicka, with the support of Livonian Bishop Mikolaj Popławski, invited Dominican friars from Vilnius to establish a monastery and school in the village. In 1699 or 1700, the Dominicans built their first wooden church and placed within it a precious treasure: an icon of the Virgin Mary painted after the model of the celebrated image from Trakai, the ancient Lithuanian capital. According to some traditions, this icon's origins trace even further back — through Vilnius to Byzantium itself, a gift from a Byzantine emperor to Grand Duke Vytautas the Great.
Word of healings and answered prayers spread quickly among the local population. Pilgrims began arriving in growing numbers, drawn by accounts of miraculous recoveries attributed to prayers before the icon. The faithful called her Aglonas brīnumdarītāja Dievmāte — Our Miraculous Lady of Aglona — and devotion to this image would define the sanctuary's identity for centuries to come.
The original wooden church served the growing pilgrimage until fire consumed the building. Undeterred, the Dominicans began planning a grander replacement. Between 1768 and 1780, they constructed the magnificent Late Baroque church that stands today, its twin sixty-metre towers visible for miles across the Latgalian countryside. The new stone edifice was finally consecrated by Bishop J. Benislavski in 1800.
The nineteenth century brought challenges. As the Russian Empire restricted religious orders, the Dominican community gradually dwindled until the last friar died at century's end, leaving diocesan priests to continue the ministry. Yet devotion to Our Lady of Aglona only intensified among the local population, particularly within the Latgalian community, who kept their Catholic faith alive despite pressure from the Orthodox establishment.
A new chapter opened in 1920 when Antonijs Springovičs became the first ethnic Latvian bishop, choosing Aglona as his cathedral before moving to Riga's Cathedral of St James in 1924. The Theological Seminary opened in the monastery buildings, followed by the Aglona Catholic Gymnasium. The sanctuary became the undisputed Catholic centre of Latvia.
In 1980, marking the bicentenary of the stone basilica, Pope John Paul II granted the church the title of Basilica Minor — the only one in Latvia. Thirteen years later, on September 9, 1993, the Pope himself arrived as a pilgrim, celebrating Mass before the basilica just two years after Latvia regained independence. In 1995, the Latvian Parliament passed a law designating Aglona as a "Sacred Site of National Importance."
Pope Francis followed in his predecessor's footsteps on September 24, 2018, celebrating Mass in the same square before the venerated icon, which had been brought outdoors despite pouring rain. The faithful waited for hours, undeterred by the weather, to pray with the Holy Father at this ancient place of pilgrimage.
☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Aglona
Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Aglonas Vissvētākās Jaunavas Marijas debesīs uzņemšanas bazilika (Latvian)
The Aglona Basilica rises in gleaming white splendour between the two lakes, its Italian Late Baroque architecture a striking contrast to the surrounding pine forests. The twin towers, each reaching approximately sixty metres, dominate the landscape and serve as a beacon for approaching pilgrims.
Interior & Treasures
Stepping through the doors, pilgrims enter a world of Rococo splendour. The interior features groin vaults, elegant arches, and columns adorned with rich ornamental detail dating from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Ten ornate altars line the nave and side chapels, each featuring religious artwork from the period. The pulpit and historic organ date from the late eighteenth century, their craftsmanship a testament to the skill of local artisans.
But all eyes are drawn upward to the high altar, where the sacred icon of Aglonas brīnumdarītāja Dievmāte — Our Miraculous Lady of Aglona — resides. This seventeenth-century painting, modelled on the Trakai Virgin, is normally concealed behind an ornate cover and unveiled only during major religious celebrations — most notably during the great August pilgrimage. The icon is believed to possess healing powers, and countless ex-votos and testimonies of answered prayers attest to the faith of generations who have knelt before this image.
Sacred Grounds
Beyond the basilica itself, pilgrims will find several sites of devotion scattered across the sanctuary grounds.
The Holy Spring — On the shore of Lake Egles, a natural spring has long been attributed with healing properties. Pilgrims collect the water, believing in its blessed nature. The spring is accessible via a short walk from the basilica grounds.
The Apparition Hill — Local tradition holds that in 1798, the Virgin Mary appeared to a villager on a hill near the church, prophesying that multitudes would come to this place. A statue of Our Lady marks the spot, and pilgrims still gather here to pray.
The Pilgrimage Square — Created in preparation for Pope John Paul II's 1993 visit, this vast sacred enclosure before the basilica accommodates the enormous crowds that gather for the August 15 celebration.
Dominican Monastery — The historic monastery buildings, dating from the same period as the church, now house various Church offices and facilities.
🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations
Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary — August 15
The greatest pilgrimage in the Baltic region, drawing upwards of 300,000 faithful from Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Belarus, Russia, and beyond. Pilgrims walk for days from distant cities — those from Liepāja on the western coast travel for over a week. The roads around Aglona fill with streams of devotees as the feast approaches, some carrying candles, others singing hymns in Latgalian dialect. The night vigil and midnight Mass are particularly moving, with thousands standing together in the pilgrimage square beneath the stars, their candles flickering in the darkness as hymns rise toward the illuminated basilica.
Pentecost — Seventh Sunday after Easter
The second major pilgrimage at Aglona Basilica draws tens of thousands to celebrate the descent of the Holy Spirit, continuing a centuries-old tradition of gathering at this Marian sanctuary for the great feasts of the Church.
🛏️ Where to Stay
Monastery Guesthouse (pilgrim accommodation) — Limited rooms within the basilica complex at Ciriša iela 8, Aglona. Book months ahead for the August pilgrimage; contact the basilica administration directly for availability.
BALTĀ māja (guesthouse) — Recently renovated guesthouse less than 1 km from the basilica with lake views, garden, and free parking. Reserve this hotel
Kalna apartamenti (apartment) — Seven-minute walk from the basilica with free bicycles, water sports facilities, and children's playground, on the lakeside. Reserve this hotel
Eco Boutique Guest House Celmalas (boutique hotel) — Six hundred metres from the basilica with steam room, sauna, and meals prepared from self-grown produce; rated 8.9 on Booking.com. Reserve this hotel
Brīvdienu māja Celmiņi (farmstay) — Traditional Latvian countryside property featuring an ancient black sauna (melnā pirts), spa facilities, and three bedrooms; rated 9.7. Fourteen-minute walk from the basilica. Reserve this hotel
Čiekuri (guesthouse) — Holiday home with lake views, sauna, and water sports facilities 2.9 km from the basilica; rated 9.1. Reserve this hotel
Book months in advance for August 15 — accommodation fills rapidly for the Assumption celebration. Consider Daugavpils (40 km southwest) for a wider range of hotels if local options are full.
🚗 Getting There
By Air: Riga International Airport (RIX) is the nearest major airport, approximately 230 km from Aglona. From Riga, travel by bus or car (roughly 3–4 hours).
By Bus: Regular services connect Riga to Aglona, with schedules at autoosta.lv. The journey takes approximately 4 hours. Buses also connect Daugavpils to Aglona (around 1 hour).
By Train: No direct train service to Aglona. Take the train from Riga to Daugavpils, then continue by bus or taxi.
By Car: From Riga, take the A6/E262 toward Daugavpils, then follow signs to Aglona via regional roads (approximately 230 km, 3–3.5 hours). From Daugavpils, head northeast on the P63 (approximately 40 km, 45 minutes). From Vilnius, cross the border at Medininkai/Kamenny Log and proceed via Daugavpils (approximately 180 km, 2.5–3 hours). Parking is available near the basilica, though expect heavy congestion during the August pilgrimage.
📚 Further Reading
Leonards Latkovskis, Aglona: A History of the Church and Monastery (Latgalian Cultural Centre, 2009) — The only comprehensive English-language history of the Aglona Church and Monastery, drawing on archival documents, original sources, and personal interviews. Buy on Amazon
Kevin J. Wright, Catholic Shrines of Central and Eastern Europe: A Pilgrim's Travel Guide (Liguori Publications, 1999) — Covers 70+ sanctuaries across eleven countries, with histories, addresses, and lodging information for major pilgrimage destinations including those in the Baltic region. Buy on Amazon
🎥 Recommended Videos
Latvia: Holy Mass at Aglona — Pope Francis (2018) by EWTN — Full coverage of the September 24, 2018 papal Mass at the shrine, including the homily on Mary standing near those who suffer.
Pope Francis — Aglona — Holy Mass 24 September 2018 by Vatican News — Complete 1 hour 26 minute recording of the papal liturgy at Aglona Basilica, including the full homily delivered before the venerated icon of Our Lady in the rain.
The Shrine of Our Lady of Aglona — Major Pilgrimage Site in the Baltics by EWTN Vaticano — Short documentary overview of Aglona's history and spiritual significance as the Baltic region's foremost Marian sanctuary.
Aglona — Aglyuna, June 2024 by Arvīds Ostrovskis — Aerial drone footage of the basilica, surrounding lakes, and the Latgale landscape filmed in summer 2024, offering a rare bird's-eye perspective of the pilgrimage setting.
🔗 Useful Links
Aglona Basilica Official Site: aglonasbaznīca.lv
Diocese of Rēzekne-Aglona: rezeknesaglonasdiece.lv
Latvia Tourism — Aglona: latvia.travel
Latgale Tourism: visitlatgale.com
Aglona Tourism Portal: aglona.travel
Bus Schedules: autoosta.lv
🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations
- Budslaw, Belarus — 151 km
- Vilnius, Lithuania — 193 km
- Baruny, Belarus — 208 km
- Trakai, Lithuania — 210 km
- Hill of the Crosses, Lithuania — 223 km
- Šiluva, Lithuania — 245 km
🪶 Closing Reflection
"This is the main way that Mary shows herself. She stands near those who suffer, those from whom the world flees, including those who have been put on trial, condemned by all, deported... The Mother also stands close by them, steadfast beneath their cross of incomprehension and suffering."
— Pope Francis, Homily at the Shrine of the Mother of God, Aglona, 24 September 2018
